Epilogue: Korean Adventure

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Due to previous experience I had decided to be as nearer as possible to the air port a day prior to flight homewards. While catching the flight from Tribhuvan Airport Kanthmandu we might have missed it only by few minutes. We had started from Pokhara 154 km away from Kathmandu at 4 AM to catch flight to Mumbai at 2 PM. But due to traffic jams, tortuous roads in Ghats, at places just absence of motor-able roads the distance which normally should have been covered at the most in 5 hours took 10 hours and we just threw our bags at bag drop counter of Nepal Airways at 1.50 PM. and entered the plane. And within 10 minutes flight took off!

Though Incheon airport is taken as major airport of Seoul, in fact it’s not in Seoul! Incheon is a separate city like Hyderabad-Secunderabad. Seoul’s own proper airport is at Gimpo. My flight from Jeju landed at Gimpo. To travel from Gimpo to Bupyeong where I had reservation in Toyoko.inn turned out to be most arduous task. Gimpo airport has many levels of subways, unless you are on the correct level you end up paying many times because you enter through the same gate again and again!. Unlike other stations Up and Down lines of same route are/were not on the same level, i.e. on the opposite platforms but on top of each other. Meaning if ‘Down’ line is on the 4^th level, ‘Up’ line is on the 3rd level! After wasting money 3 times and in the end taking help of follow commuters I could land up on the transfer platform correctly. But the collapsible doors to the exit refused to open, a female voice citing some error. By this time I was exasperated. Two three people tried to help me but the doors had zipped their mouth as if holding a deadliest secret. In the mean while I felt probably balance might be low, some tit-bit from the previous experiences, so I refilled the card again. Same ‘Beep Beep’ from the machine.  Now I was angry with myself and I took it on my bag of 16.5 kg. By now it was becoming too much for me. A helper who was watching my efforts to get through approached me and tried to explain, with ‘Mask’ on and in his truncated so called English. Even through that gibberish I gathered that T money card as it is not valid on Airport Express it was not working. I requested him to help me as I had already wasted Kwon 10000 though the balance was good. He used his master card, opened the doors for me and explained where to get down. I was so relieved, but must be that I did not listen to him properly.

I was supposed to get down at Bupyeoung station but there were three stations by the same name on the same line. Bupyeoung PO, Bupyeoung GU and Bupyeoung market! I decided to get down at Bupyeoung GU calculating, even if it would be a mistake it would be only of one station  on either side. And it was a mistake. After getting out from the station, fortunately through correct exit, I hailed for a taxi. Another experience which I never had before in entire Korea. Three taxi-men in a row plainly refused the fare! Without losing cool I conferred, either the hotel must be too far away, way off his normal route or too near not worth the effort as the fare would be minimum. I had decided not to drag that bag further so waited for the forth taxi-man. And it was as I had predicted before .Hotel was just a one block away, walking distance of 10 minutes. [No , not for me!] Without murmuring a word of dissent he accepted the minimum fare and coolly drove off.

I had reached the hotel at around 11.45 AM, hoping, the checking in time to be around 12.00 PM. It turned out to be, 4 PM. She was ready to give me a room immediately for Kwon 22000 more! Though I was extremely tired due to want of sleep on the previous night, flight of 2 hrs and fiascoes, multiple, at subways I refused to fall prey to her bait and decided to laze on the couches in the lounge. Putting bag of 16.5 kg in safe custody I ventured out to have lunch after some time. And there was this huge market under the Lotte mall spread over three basements and acres of land,

Bupyeoung Underground Shopping Center. It had lanes and lanes of shops, mostly clothes, but along with shops of fashion accessories, mobile accessories and as I had written before a complete section for ‘Nail Art!’ 

I saw a middle aged man getting it done. Modesty in me did not allow shooting him!! Had some Korean grub to the fullest don’t even remember now what it was, I was so used to it! Returned to the hotel and of all the lot that I had stayed before it turned out to be the best. Very cozy room for one person, humidifier, small fridge, a tub and ‘Japanese Toilet!’ Above all breakfast was included. Almost 5 star [I did not venture in the swimming pool] with tariff at the most around Rs 2700/- View of Incheon/Seoul from 19^th floor was glitteringly

starry!

Shopped for some clothes, ONLY two-three bottles of Soju for fear of their weight, because by now I had started abhorring that bag and next day morning about 10.30 AM I started my journey back to home.

And on the subway my respect for Korea’s hospitality and culture increased ten times. I had already studied the topography of Bupyeoung market station. It turned out that though I had taken the correct line that particular train was running to another destination. Like Karjat and Kasara trains using the same line. One girl in her mid twenties probably understood my predicament as I was repeatedly scrutinizing the subway map, came to me and said in broken English, ‘This train won’t take you to airport , get down on next station I’ll guide you!’

Actually she was going in some different direction but she got down for me at penultimate station and handed me over to other lass still younger who was to head in my direction, telling her my agenda. After making sure that the new lass will take me properly, she left after saying, ‘Bye’ waving her both hands in Korean fashion! The new girl opened her phone, and conveyed, ‘Don’t Worry, I’ll accompany you till you board the correct escalator of Airport Express’

And she did it! After changing two lines and going up and down on few escalators!

She waited at the base of the escalator till I reached the top, on the platform. We waved back at each other and I caught the train to Incheon Airport!

My first ‘Solo’ trip for me was a grand success. Barring few hiccups which I told myself, were expected but I learnt about myself much more when I stayed with myself, 24 into 7.

Though you love your near and dear ones from the bottom of your heart you must take out time for yourself! To know yourself better,to love yourself, to pamper yourself!  It's time for yourself when nobody asks you embarrassing questions, nobody doubts your actions, nobody nags you if you go wrong, nobody asks you to make choices.It's  you and you only who is responsible for your deeds and mistakes! Mind you it teaches you a lot! It tests your endurance, stamina, strength and above all perseverance in oddest of the situations. That many may find outrageous, plainly selfish but for your growth as a person it should be treated as must! You may feel vulnerable at times, in fact many more times but that’s where mettle of yourself is going to be tested. I came to know what my body can endure even at the age of 70, what my mind can take and what not, how far can I be liberal with my food habits, rather How much ‘OPEN” I would be for the newer ideas. Am I too much dependent on others or too much independent!

If you ask me whether I would venture out again with my advancing age, I would say gladly, on the contrary I felt why I didn’t do it before.

I bid you adieu with this last episode of 'My Korean Adventure' and thank every body from the bottom of my heart for going through what I had blabbered and not only that, appreciated it.

I am indebted to you, you all !

 

 

Korean Adventure: 8

Jeju Island: Last rendezvous

Jeju Island or Jeju-do as it is called by Koreans was going to be my last rendezvous with Korean Adventure. Situated in South- West seas of Korea, it’s a very big island, almost two and half times bigger than Singapore. In fact if it decides it can be an island state separate from Korea.

What Lonavala-Khandala is to Pune-Mumbaikars Jeju is to residents of Seoul-Busan or Korea in general. It’s a playground, watering hole [like what Alibag is to Mumbaikars], recreation center, vacation resort in short ‘Time-Pass’ for the normal Korean. I was surprised to see the number of Golf kits being collected from the conveyor belt after landing down on Jeju air port.

My first jolt of Jeju was the distance to the hotel, Ocean Palace my abode in Jeju from the airport. It was whooping around 32 km. It’s like you alight at CS-MT and you have to go to Borivali by Taxi because any other mode of transport is not available. She was polite moderately English speaking taxi driver driving her ‘Kia’ with elegance. No over speeding, no lane cutting, no abrupt brakes, no rash driving. May be fines are very stiff!

It took practically 1.45 to 2 hours to reach Ocean Palace hotel in Seogwipo. The taxi meter was running as if it had to complete 100 meters sprint in shortest time. I ended up paying more than K won 55000/- almost the fare I paid for Busan-Jeju flight, Rs 3000/- or more!

I then realized that in fact Jeju has many in-habitations scattered all over Jeju Island and Seogwipo was one of them, on the southern coast while the Jeju-si the capital of Jeju is on the northern coast where all the tourist activity is. Conducted tours start from the air port parking lot at around 9.30 AM. So catch them I would have to start at 5 AM at the most 5.30 AM. It would have been difficult to reach before 9.30 AM as buses don't ply at those unearthly hours.So taxi was must. If one way was going to cost K won 55000 ,for three days to and fro it would have been well over 3 lacs. Absolutely loathsome proposition.

That's how it was a mistake to book Ocean Palace. Any hotel nearer airport would have been a better choice.

I dare not call them villages because every locality had/has high rises, posh bungalows, shops of franchises, huge golf courses and all the amenities that normally are seen in developed communities, like up market salons along with Nail parlors! Nail parlor is extremely happening thing for Korean women. When I stayed in Incheon on the last leg of my Korean adventure I saw a complete section of underground super-market devoted to Nail Art!

Ocean Palace was so so hotel and did not have ‘Japanese Toilet’, my loss!

I had bought Soju before but did not dare to open it so far, as I was apprehensive about the level of  its ‘High’ effect, so I bought Kimbap and Korean rice wine [its mild], Makgeolli from 7-11 on the first floor[Korean]. Kimbap is a rice roll with some meat, mostly pork or fish with Kim-chi or some vegetables and some sauces rolled in Nori, a paper made from sea weed. It tastes very good till the time it’s warm but as it gets colder the typical ocean water smell may make one not to go further. Rice wine was really good, sweetish in taste with that typical flavor of rice fermentation one gets while making south Indian/Konkani recipes. I may tell in advance that I did not know that it has to be shaken before consumption[Instructions must be there on bottle, but of course in Korean] so on first two evenings I drank clear rice wine while on the last day the sediments tasted like thick sweet Rice porridge [Kheer!].

Next day morning I had decided to explore south Jeju as it was nearby.

Jeongbang Pokpo, was the first one. Pokpo means waterfall in Korean. I went on walking along the sea coast and early morning crisp fresh air literally hit me. By this time I had developed a big sore on the Tendo Achilles by shoe bite even after applying two band-aids and Elastoplast! Before buying the shoes,

I had checked the pressure points, i.e., toes and heels, it was very comfortable there. But continuous walk resulted in giving me a shoe bite at unforeseen site. Luckily Shubha had forced me to take sandals and they came handy. After wearing those with socks chill factor became zero! Sandals made my walk pleasurable. Really!

Fall’s claim to the fame is that, it’s the only waterfall in Asia that falls directly into the ocean. It’s hidden behind rocky cliffs and becomes apparent only when you go nearer. A school trip, mainly boys, was there and I realized Korean boys too get pimples in their adolescence. The clear skin thereafter might be work of Dermatologist and Plastic Surgeon together! Out of the lot many bowed to me, I was told it’s Korean tradition to show respect to the elders. I was though not overwhelmed [as I was partly aware of it] but was moved because such respect from strangers, absolute strangers was adorable though not unexpected!

The next stop, again a fall was on the other end of south. Cheonjiyeon Pokpo. Bus ride was must. I got down on the stop but no fall in the vicinity. Not even stream, rivulet or water flow in any kind. Some dense woods on Left but no sign of water fall or river.  There was Orange juice stall on the corner. The farmer/owner had the orchard of oranges just next to his stall. So orange juice was going to be really farm fresh. Had a glass and really felt revived.

Unfortunately the directions given by the farmer though were correct I landed up on the top of fall, from where I could very well see the fall but not the base. Nobody knew exactly how to climb down to reach the base. Met a Phirang who too was in the same boat. He said, ‘This road might lead to, but I am not sure’. Again back to square one.

Going up and down on the trails, asking shop attendants on the way I must have walked about 4-5 km around the top but no way to base. Ultimately I decided to depend on my logic for directions and viola within next 10 minutes I was on the right path. I could see the lagoon, tour buses parked around, shops vending to tourists. And I felt like shouting ‘Eureka!’

Human civilization is incomplete without tribals and at the entrance of the fall we see many tribal figures, some of them worshiped with flowers and incense sticks. It looked like a scene directly taken from South America, Machu Pichhu to be precise.

Cheonjiyeon Pokpo, fall is in three levels. Every fall ending in a beautiful pool below which is abode to many ducks, herons and other birds. Garden-scaping has given beautiful look to the falls and it would be nice to spend your time in absolute tranquility, except it’s always thronged by the tourists! Here I met two Indian youths from Bangalore for the first time in my entire South Korean Sojourn!

At the food stall where I bought my tit-bit lunch, I saw something peculiar being cooked in the wok. On closer look it turned out to be some insects with their eggs and pupa. I just turned around to hide ‘Yuk’ look on my face!

The assistant at the information Kiosk was not only efficient in English but helped me to chart out my next day’s agenda to the last T. I thanked her profusely and returned to my hotel.

I realized next day why it is difficult to cover entire Jeju in one go. My first stop on the day next was one and half hours far away. Bus ride was like cross country marathon, from one establishment to other, I lost the count when I reached the eastern tip of Jeju to visit Seong-San Ilchulbong volcanic crater. Seong-San a locality while Ilchulbong the crater!

It is UNESCO heritage site. Unfortunately hike up to the rim of crater was not allowed when I visited. Ringed by the rugged, jagged rocks, it’s said there is no water inside as the rock is porous. The peak is archetypal tuff cone formed by hydro volcanic eruptions and other blah blah from the pamphlet. For me it was scenic picturesque view absolutely capturing the mind by its rustic beauty. The crater on its other side directly descends into a lagoon where the rocks did show the layers of multiple volcanic eruptions.

I always like/liked to paint meadows with fences and here it was entire treasure opened for me by Mother Nature!

Climbed down to the base of crater where Haenyeo, traditional Female divers had displayed their catch for the sale. The kitchen was just behind to have you served the dishes after cooked accordingly. I had heard of ‘Abalone’ porridge so was eager to try it. But when I saw live Abalone making absolutely repulsive motions in its shell I dropped the idea the very moment! It also had other ‘Sea Food’ like Sea Cucumbers, red in color, oysters in different shapes and colors, conch shells and other sea creatures. To call them ‘Food’ was beyond my Puneri Brahmnical upbringing!

The weather was so good that I could not help to be in my favorite Mumbai attire, sleeveless T, the next moment!

And if you don’t make most of it how can you be called Korean couple in love? They were such lovey dovey I could not help but to ask them to pose for me and they willingly did!

Next stop, Manjanggul Caves was on the same bus route in continuation. While appreciating the rustic beauty of Jeju sans any human habitation I missed my bus stop. Walked back to ‘T’ point to Manjanggul caves. By that time I was so used to walking, so 300-400 meters of walk seemed like nothing. But worse was waiting for me at the bifurcation ‘T’ point. I missed the connecting bus to Manjanggul caves only by few minutes. So another walk of 3 and 4 kms! On the entire stretch of 4 kms I did not see anything moving, in human form! I made the thumb sign of hitch hiking for 3 or 4 cars those passed by but the country that has accepted everything American as their own lifestyle, Hitch Hiking seemed to be outrageous, and no one stopped. Huffing and puffing but not excessively tired I reached the caves because weather was really pleasant!

These are the caves formed when Lava flew down leaving the open space behind. All the entrances are not open for public but the one that’s open gives you enough idea about the other ones. I had already visited two or three such caves before, one in Malaysia and one in Nepal so it was not much of novelty for me. I think one in Meghalaya [Mawsmai] was much better. But this one was quite spacious like subway/metro tunnel and the tale-tell signs of it being created by volcanic eruptions and lava can be seen on the walls, ceiling and floor. The temp was very low and after walking down for half a kilometer or so feet said, enough so I returned back to have yummy fried dumplings in the Korean restaurant on the premises. The side dishes were yummier than the main dish, really! I could not make out what it was made of but the soup was out of this world!

As I said earlier the distances in Jeju are deadly, it took me three and half hours to reach my hotel in Seogwipo from Manjanggul Caves. By that time it was almost mid evening! May be I could have reached Pune from my home in Ghatkopar in that time!

Last day in Jeju too was memorable. This time I visited a Buddhist temple on Western Coast, Sanbanggul Temple. The location of the temple was amazing. It was/is built on the slopes of Steep Mountain, Sangban -San which with a narrow strip of land in between ,directly ends in the sea and you can see the entire play of topography in one eye-sight. The rains played hide and seek for some time but within minutes ‘All was Clear’! It’s a mixture of two cultures or so it seems because along with Buddha statues you also can see the statues of tribal deities side by side. For the photographer in me there were various spots those really were worth the visit. Lot of spots with ‘Beauty in Symmetry!’

The not far away sea with an island too was worth thousand photos.

While coming back I was doubtful about the balance on my T money card, so went on searching for convenience store and ATM. None was to be found in the vicinity. On the contrary a lady shopper under the pretext of checking whether I can withdraw cash on my HSBC card swiped it and I was charged Kwon 1000 for nothing! I lodged the complaint with HSBC but it went on deaf ears. Unlike in India vendor abroad does not ask for your PIN but as soon as the card is swiped it gets automatically read! So bank said the transaction was with Reading of PIN so we cannot do anything!

Luckily my card had enough balance to reach Seogwipo but not more. So for fear of exhausting the existing balance I had to drop the idea to visit ‘Sex Museum’ which was on the way.

 I soon as got down from the bus I tried to withdraw cash from the Korean bank’s ATMs. All my cards were rejected and I was again a rich pauper! I don’t know how but the driver of the connecting bus understood my predicament and allowed me to travel for free. May be because it was two stops only!

In the evening I visited local market and it was experience beyond words! Absolutely incomprehensible! A simple market like Mandai in Pune or Crawford market in Mumbai. Only glaring difference was cleanliness!  It has shops, shops and shops. Selling everything from ‘Pin to Piano’ but food stalls superseded every other one. Jeju Oranges are famous in Korea like Nagpur oranges in India, so there was ‘N’ number of stalls selling them. Plus it’s a good market for all kinds of fish, raw as well as prepared. Many families were enjoining their evening grub with delight.It looked as if entire Seogwipo was out to dine at Seogwipo Maeil Olle market.

My flight back to Seoul was in the early morning so I was apprehensive about getting the taxi at those unearthly hours. As a precaution I had booked the taxi with hotel in advance which came dot on time and even in the thundering heavy rains I reached the airport 32 km away in time to catch the flight to Gimpo Seoul!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Korean Adventure 7

 

Busan Day 3: Day of Disasters

On the day prior, before retiring I had decided to visit Guemgang Park again along with Beomeosa Buddhist temple after getting up. God knows how I overslept, got up only at around 10.30 AM. May be hours of ‘Few minutes of walk!’ must have taken its toll. Mind was saying ‘’Yes’ body was saying ‘No’! May be the reminder of steep ascent from the base of the mountain was the main deterrent. In the end I decided to laze in the bed till 12 before venturing out. And decided, today I would exert less as four days of Jeju were still there. Preserve the energy was today’s motto. The hotel building has/had Star Buck Cafe; in its premises so had breakfast there before venturing out, aimlessly.

Korea has overdose of malls. So far I had categorically decided not to step in any one of them but today was the day of ‘Lazing around’ so I visited the nearest mall, one metro station away, Lotte mall on the Busan harbor. Till few years ago it was the biggest mall in Korea but now CoEx from Seoul has surpassed it.

The exit from Jungang metro station takes you directly into the mall. Surprisingly like Pune the ground floor in Korea is called as 1^st floor and not like Mumbai where it’s known as Floor zero. After climbing to ‘1^st’ floor I was awestruck, but not that much to be dumbfounded. At the entrance there is/was huge 4 story fountain like Jewel at Changi airport, Singapore! As of now it holds the record of highest indoor waterfall in the world!

The water was falling from the ceiling in cascades taking myriads of forms. Circular curtain of water was falling in the artificial pond below every few minutes meeting various jets of waters playing to the tune of music. Well my words will always fall short to describe it, please see the video elsewhere on Facebook.There were many spectators like me who went on watching it for minutes, not hours.

  

I had plans to buy entire swimming set for myself as mine at home was overused. I went on searching for the sports section. In that maze of sections, shops and franchises I searched and searched when somebody told me it to be on the 7^th floor. It in the end, it was big fiasco. It had only one brand which I had never heard of. I was looking at least for Speedo, it was not there but other Korean brand TMAK made popular by K Drama Hallyu star Sung Hoon was also not available. The one available was so expensive that I dropped the idea to buy it. Ordinary swimming goggles, with no choice, were available at Rs.9000/- or around when better quality one is available in Decathlon in R City mall, just opposite my home in Mumbai costs not more than Rs. 1000/-.Same thing about trunks. Exorbitantly priced at Rs.3500/- that too not Speedo was unthinkable.

I should have learnt the lesson but then how curiosity would kill the cat? Just window shopped ladies section to buy winter coat for Shubha my wife and something elegant for Neha and Saana my daughters. There was this lovely two piece woolen jacket and skirt suit that caught my attention. The top itself was priced just short of a Lakh in rupees, while the skirt, much more! I decided to tell Neha and Saana, there was nothing worth their beauty!

Actually Lotte mall is like Big Bazaar in India so I was expecting some reasonable prices, but some sections of it were totally up market, and were beyond the reach of average middle class Indian like me!

• As it was my day to laze around I thought of watching a movie and to my surprise it turned out that Lotte mall has/had cinema halls occupying 4 floors, from 7^th to 10^th. It had everything from IMAX to 4-D to Super 3D and something Super Ex-vision. Unfortunately all the movies running at that time were in Korean language without English subtitles [why should they have?], including Hollywood Block-Busters. ‘Black Adam’ starring Rock Dwayne Johnson, Pierce Brosnan was running but in dubbed version, in Korean. I was ready for that too just for the sake of experience but the ticket was K won 14000/- more than Rs 900/- Insignia-INOX  at R-City mall is much less and on top of it they serve food! We leave Indian shores but India never leaves us! My nephew on whats App messaged me, “Good you did not go for it, it’s a Dud!”

The rooftop of the mall, free entrance to everybody, offers excellent view of Busan again. Busan Tower from afar looked more beautiful. Plus the bridges which were not appreciated due to lack of proper view. Yeongdo Bridge, one that opens in the middle to make way for a ship passing underneath. Not a novelty but all the same, it is unique. It was built by Japanese. Other one on the side is Busan Bridge with Antique architecture, compared to today’s times. Plus the double Decker Diamond bridge, which I haven't appreciated while traveling on it.

Wandered for an hour or so, while doing so, I observed a peculiar trend among-st the Korean youths. Maximum temperature outside was never more than 11-12* C but every young one was carrying iced coffee cups, no, tumblers in their hands. After seeing number of such young boys and girls with their iced black coffee cups I could not hold my imprudence anymore and asked one of them,

“How could you drink such cold coffee in such chilly weather?’

He definitely understood my question, more, my English and said,

‘So what?’ shrugging his shoulders he joined his group again giggling, laughing. All his group mates waved at me and moved on laughing again.

Surprisingly Korea has many many coffee shop chains though it’s not a major coffee producing country. They import mostly from South America. Barista, a coffee maker carries a good respect on his shoulders, in the society. We have only one good chain though we are good coffee exporters [Coffee from Coorg is famous all over the world], Starbucks [actually American though run by Tatas in India] . Korea has more than 10 chains and their shops can be seen in every nook and corner of the country. Angel in Coffee being the most popular, but there are others like A Twosome Place, Tom N Tom’s Coffee, Holley’s Coffee, Ediya Coffee, Cafe’ Pascucci. All of these I saw myself and it’s not enumeration from Wikipedia!

Not only they are mad about Coffee brands but Korea is a ‘Brand-Mad’ country in general. There are brands among-st bakers also. Paris Baguette leading in the sector. And rightly so. I tasted  their bakery products; they were so divine that they absolutely melted in the mouth.

I had my bad while ordering Cocoa at one of such outlets. The girl on the counter filled 3/4^th of the jar with ice cubes before blending it. I said,

‘Heck No, I don’t want that much of ice!’

Through sign and mobile conversation,

‘But it cannot be made without it!’

‘Why not, put all the other ingredients like you normally put but less ice!’

While saying ‘No’ Koreans put their both forearms at cross.

Making that cross sign she said, ‘No’. Again.

After using my translator she understood what I wanted and my cup of Tea, no Cocoa, was ready after much persuasion! Why do they have such fixed/dogmatic ideas I don’t know but I had similar experience in Mumbai too!

And I was at it again! Walking! The city venue of Busan Film festival was just few meters away. It actually is a lane like ‘Hollywood Walk of Fame’. On either side there are many cinema halls and multiplexes with Central Street embedded with Brass Stars and hand imprints of Korean as well as international celebrities. 

I could see plaques of Willem Daphoe, villain in Spider-Man: I, Famous Japanese Director Akira Kurosawa, Rashoman fame. Surprisingly because the name was changed from Pusan to Busan in 2000, old plaques still carry the old name of the city, Pusan.

The street is also famous for the Korean street food. I had sweet; again made from sticky rice but this time it was stuffed with Honey, Brown sugar syrup tinged with cinnamon and Crushed Peanuts with seeds of pumpkin, Hotteok! The vendor must be popular because I was 5^th in the queue! And the queue was worth for its taste; in plain words it was yummy!

On the bus back to hotel my T money card died no balance! As the sensor showed the red sign driver asked me to get down by crossing his hands. I showed him a note of K won 10000/- but he again gestured, No ! A fellow passenger suggested, in English [!], ‘Go to the nearest convenience store and get it refilled. Cash not allowed on bus.’

I got down helplessly but fortunately 7-11 was just in front of the stop. Recharged the card and caught the next bus within 10 minutes because frequency was good!

I was late and did not want to venture out again for food so had bought a cup noodles. Ramen. You just have to pour hot water and the noodles are ready. As I said it was the day of disaster, Ramen too was disaster. It comes in different tastes, contents, texture and what not. I had selected the cup randomly and it turned to be excessively spicy [pungent], after few morsels, my eyes and nose started watering like hose pipe. I didn’t know what to do. I washed them three times with hot water but the pungency was same. Ultimately I flushed them down the ‘Japanese’ toilet!

The problem, next in the queue was, ‘What to eat for dinner?’

As said earlier the hotel building had Starbucks, Nice to CU and a deli on the ground floor,, I rushed to the deli but their daily quota was almost finished. Randomly I selected three dishes from the remaining lot; one was fish, other squid and third simple potato. From CU I got ‘Sweet Potato Cake’ a pucca Korean dish which was novelty for me and small carton of pain ‘lassi’ made in Holland! Out of all, the worst was pure vegetarian Potato dish, chewy to the hilt with some weird taste. That too I had to  flush down the drain! In closed AC room the smell pervades.

With disaster of dinner I went to sleep with half empty stomach. I had few bananas left from the previous day so that was it.

But it was not going to be so!

After 3-4 hours of sleep I got up with a start because I was profusely sweating and was feeling suffocated. Myriads of possibilities danced in front of me with disastrous outcome. I consoled myself, you are not having chest pain, there is no whizzing as such and you are not obviously breathless. I checked my pulse , volume was alright and rhythm too, "Just don’t panic!"   I reprimanded myself !

I checked around and it turned out that AC was not functioning. I tried to contact the front desk but he gave me vague answer,

‘As there are many guests today, cooling is on the lower side’

I said, ‘Not lower side, it’s not working’

I realized it was futile to argue on the phone so I rushed to the front desk in my sleeping clothes. First few sentences were verbal but I realized whatever I was saying was going over their heads so I asked for a pencil and paper and the next conversation was on the paper.

He said the same thing again, adding,

‘I will provide you with a fan’

‘I have paid for AC room, I don’t want fan, if you insist reduce my tariff. Plus my entire house in Mumbai is air conditioned; I am used to sleep in AC, no fan for me!’

‘That’s not possible. I’ll give you free break-fast tomorrow’

‘I am a frugal eater and can afford to pay for my breakfast.’

‘I’ll give you another room.’

‘I am checking out tomorrow, I don’t want to pack, unpack and repack again, as my things are cluttered in the room.’ Here I failed to understand ‘How the AC in the other room is working when the number of guests is same.’

‘I will give you extra checking out hour.’

‘My flight to Jeju is at 2-3 PM so I have to be at air port 2 hours before that, so that doesn’t count.’

In the end it started becoming exasperating. So I raised my voice and said verbally,

‘I want AC in my room to be started within 5 minutes otherwise I’ll lodge a written complaint’

‘I am sorry, I’ll do the needful.’

As soon as I returned to the room whirring sound of AC was on and cooling was good! Next day morning though I had said otherwise, I lodged a written complaint and asked for full refund.

Surprisingly newer man on the desk was proficient in English and was ready to lower his mask. I put down my apprehensions to his ears on which he requested,’Why written complaint but, please take it back’

I refused. We exchanged few pleasantries and we parted giving each other high fives!

As usual Busan air port is far away and I did not want to drag my bag again so took a cab and reached the airport in time for my flight to Jeju-do at 3 PM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Korean Adventure: 6

 

Korean Adventure: 7

Busan Day 2

I woke up in the morning with a start. The anxiety about finding the ‘Meeting Point’ still shadowing over my mind, I dreaded that I am going to miss, this one too. What a waste of honestly earned money. But a message was waiting for me on the mobile. With trembling hands [well almost] and heavy heart [that’s true] I opened it. And it was most ecstatic news for me. It was message from Ktourstory, the tour operators.

‘Due to unavoidable circumstances the tour to Oedo Island is cancelled’

I didn’t know how to react to the excuse; at one level it was stupid at other; boon for me!

‘Our Tour Guide has contracted COVID and for want of equally efficient and qualified replacement we are cancelling the tour!’

Unfortunately Busan City Tours do not operate on Mondays and Tuesdays so my plan to take other lines went Kaput!

So it turned out to be yet another day for me to be on my own in Busan. May be I am gifted with ‘Never say die’ spirit and insatiable hunger for innovation I immediately charted out plan B and decided to visit few places in Busan on my own. I was still holding T money card from Seoul that works on Busan subways too. After recharging the card at nearest ‘Nice to CU’ I ventured out to visit Guemgang Park situated in the northern mountains by the same name.

Taking line number one from Busan KLT station I alighted at Myeongnyun station, any takers for  correct pronunciation. Surprisingly youngish station master knew good English and he directed me correctly. I was to take a bus going to the base of Guemgang Mountain and after a walk of 5-10 minutes I would be at the destination. I crossed the sky-walk and came across something that I had never seen in Korea so far. A poor street vendor selling vegetables on the sky-walk! I did not know where to put her in ultra prosperous Korean economy!

I got down on the correct stop with help of the driver but last 10 minutes walk turned out be breath taking for me, literally. Naturally as I was to reach the base of mountain the ascent was going to be steep and steeper. I reached the park with dense forest and Guemgang Mountain, also known as Guemgang–san, without breath! The notice at the entrance declared that ‘Rope way’ is operating today. So I gladly climbed up to the cable car station. I saw many veterans like me waiting there for the Cable car to start. And one of them pointed out that being Monday it was not going to operate. Hurdles after hurdles. With small heart I loitered in the park for some time, as hiking to the top was out of question for me. Okay certain things are not for everybody in this world!

I caught the return bus to Myeongnyun station. Just next to the bus stop there is/was this huge Lotte mall. As my phone battery was dying too frequently, due to excessive usage while searching for subway lines, buses, and other sundry information, I was advised from Mumbai to buy Power Pack Back up storage device. [Thanks to I-Vodafone’s faultless International roaming facilities]. And the choice was huge I selected the one that had sufficient storage for my needs, 10000  and suited my pocket, K won 19900/- around Rs 1100 or little more.

I had selected the places those were on the same line, number one as it was convenient. I caught the train to get down at Nampo station from where the Busan tower was at a walking distance! God knows how much I must have walked saying, Walking distance of few minutes!  

The road leading to Busan tower went through ultra posh avant garde market of Busan. Along with the usual famous brands it had franchises of National Geography and Discovery in the near vicinity. The layout of the road was very neat and tidy with huge pots of flower bushes placed in the middle of road.

I was able to see the Busan tower from below but didn’t know how to reach it. There is no dearth good Samaritans in Korea, one such helped me till I reached the escalators those take you to the tower. The ride on the escalators was nothing less than pleasant and surprising. There were three or four of them taking one to higher levels, after every ride.. Each one was decorated with lovely Neon signs or LCD displays.

On the outer skirts of the tower, known as Yongdusan park, there is artificial water fall, a flower clock, Buddhist Canopy and statue of warrior who safeguarded Busan against the invasion of Japan, Admiral Yi Su-Shin, the same one from the Seoul Palace. 

The Busan tower is smaller than Seoul tower but the view from the top is more eye-catching.The view of entire harbor, innumerable bridges, bright blue water front, air cruise Gondolas far beyond and mountains in the background leaves you awestruck because it tells what Korea is all about, progress, progress and more progress!

Busan any day is better than Seoul! All the capital cities in the world have that bad/negative political aura around them, which 2^nd cities don’t have. They have rich cultural background, better camaraderie, and down to earth people. Busan to Seoul is what Mumbai is to Delhi!  

The serving of ‘Fish & Chips’ [For a change no Korean food for me!] on the 1^st floor restaurant of the tower was so sumptuous that problem of my evening dinner too was solved! The fish was so delicious without any smell; it was dissolving in the mouth! No chewy Korean consistency, again for a change!

Oryuk-do sky-walk is supposed to be the best among-st all the sky-walks in Busan but it was way out of my reach  so I decided to visit the nearer one at Song-do beach.

There was direct bus from market to Song-do beach with a walk of few minutes thrown in as usual! Here the Google map went berserk and did not give the proper number of bus. Luckily few Firangs at the bus-stop too were going in the same direction and the same beach; they asked me to tag along. They had it easier because they had their Korean friend with them.

Song-do beach is/was semi lunar smallish man made beach with rugged hillocks surrounding it. Picturesque view! Again a jolt: Sea walk which is also known as Cloud Trail was closed for repairs. But much better option was available just round the corner, Busan Air Cruise. A rope-way that takes you to Amnam Park situated atop the mountain, hanging way above the deep sea below! I opted for glass bottomed gondola which cost just a few thousand K won more but it turned out to be wise decision because the view below your feet was just phenomenal!  

Amnam Park was/is designed on the lines of Dongbaekseom Island trail, only difference is here the children are at the center of concept. So there are huge replicas of mechanized dinosaurs which move and make sounds along with Plastic snails, from small to big and umpteen numbers of plastic pin-wheels.

Food court offers variety of Korean dishes at reasonable prices. I was dying to eat ‘Corn Dog’ which was available for K-won 3000/- only around Rs 150/- or so. It was yummy and was not problem for me because it had hot-dog under the cover of Corn batter. I had seen the recipe of fish cake so was wishing desperately to taste it but my nose refused the demand of tongue so I had to leave it at that. Return journey to Cable car station too was equally enchanting because whatever I could not see that was behind my back, I could enjoy thoroughly.

Back to Nampo station, but down Bus Stop was far away. Walk, walk and walk! I passed below the Busnandaegyo Bridge and realized how mammoth it was. With many lanes going up and down it looked like giant octopus with many tentacles.

From Nampo to Toseong station on the same line and few minutes’ walk to Gamcheon Cultural village. After taking correct exit I landed up on a square and I got confused. Which road will take me to Gamcheon village? Simple solution, ask somebody. I asked a lad may be in his late teens and may be a college going student. And what, he looked through me; not only he did not answer to my query but rushed away as if I did not exist.

“What a rude!” escaped from my mouth. He turned back, looked at me [? disdainfully] and walked away again. I pushed the incidence under carpet and went to explore on my own. Just few meters away round the corner the board said, ‘This way to Gamcheon Village’ one and half kilometer!

‘No I am not going to walk again for 35 minutes, [? Few!].Luckily a lady standing next to me on the bus stop understood my problem and said in sign language pointing towards the bus stop,

‘This bus will go.’

And within few minutes I was on the bus to Gamcheon village. It turned out again to be a wise decision because the distance to the village was ‘Unwalkable!’ It was that far off!

Gamcheon Cultural Village. Let’s see what happens to Dharavi now that Adani has taken over the reins of Dharavi’s ‘Kayapalat’! [;Make over!]

Exactly that’s what happened to Gamcheon. The refugees from the Korean War settled on the slopes of one of the mountains, by building their houses in completely hap-hazard fashion. As the prosperity started dawning upon them rather than giving the houses to builders they renovated the entire locality, that has now become UNESCO Heritage site. Every house has its own entrepreneur. And myriads of curios, artifacts, and fashion accessories are made locally which compete with bigger brands in quality and design.

I had a short round of the locality as it was not novelty for me! The curios and artifacts were very expensive for Indian in me so I caught the return bus empty handed.