Johannesburg via George

We traversed South Africa from West to East by Garden route / NH no.2. Idea was to catch flight to Johannesburg from George. On the way lunch at Hermanus and night halt at Mossel bay.

As it was National highway, road was very good and passed through picturesque landscapes. The deep, tannin-stained rivers and ancient ferns of the Garden route National Park feature lush, deep-green canopies. The area around Wilderness and Sedgefield is defined by coastal fynbos (indigenous shrub land) and a series of tranquil, sparkling lakes and meandering rivers. It had small Ghats with serpentine lazily ascending roads and Oceans initially Atlantic and then the Indian. .

We had our lunch at Hermanus at a restaurant run by a Nepali. He was so happy to receive us. Food was authentic Hindu and our group members loved it.

Just across the road there are whale

 viewing points. The Walker bay offers scintillating view of ocean. I felt now at least should it be Indian Ocean but alas it again turned out to be Atlantic as we still had not crossed Cape Agulhas which was still further down south.

Albertinia, a small town on the Garden Road is known as Aloe Vera capital of South Africa. We visited Aloe Ferox factory and Nursery on the way which has tallest structure of Aloe Vera in the entire world. Erected in 2010 it’s 9 meters tall and is replica of Aloe Ferox also known as Cape Aloe.

Aloe Ferox nursery and factory are the largest in the area and have thousands of seedlings. It produces various products from Aloe Vera like Aloe powder, jelly, extracts and juices. These are mainly used in cosmetic industries as moisturizers. There is even a wine made from Aloe Vera. Nothing spectacular about it!

Mossel Bay was still far away so we whiled away time by singing Hindi and Marathi songs on the bus. Favorite time pass for any Indian. Another picnic like feeling! It was almost evening by the time we reached Diaz Hotel and resort. At last it was Indian Ocean which could be seen from our room! Incidentally the restaurant at the resort was again ‘Jewel of India’ and was run by the same family of Ajit Kanakia that runs one in Cape Town! Room was cozy and faced Indian Ocean on the East. Alas toilet did not have water jet! Again!

By this date I was so tired, practically exhausted due to continuous running around and lack of proper sleep. I was absolutely deprived of it. So I decided to opt out of next day’s excursion, a visit to Ostrich Farm and Crocodile center. I required sleep more that a look at big eyed flightless birds!

Another reason to opt out was, I had already visited Ostrich Park in America so was not much enthusiastic about it while Crocodile Park back home at Mahabalipuram, rather on the way to Mahabalipuram from Chennai, I had found much more fascinating with hundreds of crocs, or were they more, in all forms, in all ages from eggs to adult ones!

I still remember that firang who stayed in a hut at the center of a pond infested with Crocodiles all around! He was studying them!!!

Shubha brought back the pictures holding Ostrich eggs, which she could not manage with one hand.

Last stretch of the journey was to Johannesburg via George. Air port of George was so cozy that one could have built it in the back yard of his home! It was South African domestic flight so was without any fanfare. Immediately after checking out of O R Tambo Johannesburg air port we directly drove to Nelson Mandela square situated at the center of the town. Whatever Johannesburg we could see passing, from the bus seemed to be ultra modern developed city with metros, wide roads, skyscrapers and designer buildings. It was apparent that it is the richest city of South Africa! City sightseeing tour was not on the agenda, may be Johannesburg does not have attractions for tourists’ interest!

Nelson Mandela square turned out to be a commercial shopping center in Sandton. Though it is dedicated to the father of South African anti-apartheid movement, Nelson Mandela it does not have any historical significance. Like say, it’s not cradle of anti apartheid movement, as it did not start here nor Mr. Mandela had residence in the vicinity, ever, it was far away!

It’s designed absolutely on European style and nothing African about it!

It was named after Mr. Mandela only when his 6 meter tall statue in bronze was commissioned in 2004, his first statue in the entire country! The criticism against naming after Mr. Mandela was fought with, “The Square is optimistic, expressive and confident like Madiba (Affectionate name for Mr. Mandela) jive and represents a sophisticated eclectic cosmopolitan success story!” [From Achieves]!

There is M K Gandhi square also in Johannesburg and open museum of machine/engineering artifacts but we did not visit them for want of time.

Swapnil always had an ace up his sleeves. This time it was ‘Maharaja’ Indian restaurant that was bang in the square! Food for lunch was good but nothing extra ordinary!

Afternoon was for shopping at authentic South African outlet, Cabanos. It was run mostly by whites and was authentic outlet for South African Diamonds. It was full with tourists from all over the world and some of them really bought the diamonds! I won’t dare to buy such expensive items overseas and will stick to my usual jeweler back home. Not that we did not buy anything but they were small trinkets or knick knacks! Nothing expensive!!

Our last stay was at Peermont Metcourt suits, Johannesburg. It was fantastic, 5 star abode with a stupendous mall attached to it! It was out of this world, posh, extravagant, and glistening from every corner with Vegas style casino thrown in. Here too multiplex did not exhibit any Indian flick. In fact South Africa has sizable number of Indian population practically amounting to more than 1% of entire population, so it was surprising. Is it that our Indian film producers have missed the bus? The last Indian restaurant brought memories from back home; it was named ‘Taste of Mumbai’! Yes Mumbai not Bombay!!

Early in the morning we started for the air port which was absolutely next door to Peermont Metcourt suits. It was selected to avoid the early morning rush in the city. The ground hostess cut two boarding passes one for Johannesburg to Nairobi and second was from Nairobi to Mumbai, as the air line carrying was the same!

Lay over at air ports are boring. We were to have of around 5 hours at Nairobi. So it was duty free shopping and few snacks at the restaurant!

Back in Mumbai in the wee hours we were to face yet another hurdle at immigration counter for the first time. Due to outbreak of e-bola virus in some African countries all the passengers returning from African countries were asked to check at specially allotted counters. So there were very long queues. Practically a mile long! So for the first time in life we decided to use our card of being Senior Citizen and handicapped person with rod in Right leg to avail the facility at a special counter. After clearing the emigration practically after 2 to 2.30 hours we met our son Saket, outside who was waiting for us for more than 3 hours!



This is the last installment of the travelogue. Not only did I enjoy the trip but enjoyed the write ups too as it amounted to living the entire trip again. Some episodes fetched views to the tune of more than 15000! Overwhelming! Thank you very much all those who read my blog and appreciated it. It was too much for me!

Though I was skeptical about a conducted tour at the outset, Kesari Tours were really good and they knew what they were executing. Special accolade to our tour operator Swapnil Patankar, though it was hard for me to hear what he was announcing he patiently explained everything to me again in one to one conversation. Last but not the least! The fellow groupers! They were amazing. Helping each other without squabble. I must mention about my friends Uday, Rajani, Jayu and Sheila along with Dillep Saharabuddhe and his beautiful wife Sucheta. New camaraderie was formed along with the older ones strengthened. I don’t know what would be the next but looking forward to it!

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Cape Town 3

Today’s was a long drive with some exciting sights thrown in, it was sojourn of Cape Peninsula!

We were to travel to Hout’s Bay. Around 30 kms down south from Cape Town, it’s considered suburb of Cape Town.  It’s a seaside harbor famous for Seal Island cruises. It has a lovely crescent shaped beach in the bowl of Peninsula Valley made by surrounding mountains. In fact it has many sights of tourists’ interest as it was once a Dutch colony. It’s famous for its quirky market where you can get even fake passport! It’s multiracial township with large number of whites almost on par with African Blacks.

We were to take a cruise to Duiker Island, also known as Seal Island. The boat was huge, double Decker and apart from our group there were many others. Though not overcrowded, (may be, not allowed) it carried quite a large number. Seal island was on the other side of peninsula and boat has to take 180*degree turn. The entire course of journey was spectacular. Blue waters, clear blue skies and the view of beautiful mountains Suther Peak, Chapman’s peak and others as background!

Duiker Island turned out to be a cluster of rocks may be 20 to 30 in number. They were occupied by seals, seals and seals everywhere! May be in hundreds may be more! Most were lazily taking sunbath while few were jumping in the waters for, may be enjoyment may be food. Their shiny skin glistened in the morning sun giving them the appearance of Nouveau riche damsel flaunting her imported waist coat made from shiny leather!

Back to harbor with heavy heart. A red colored boat crossing the blue waters was sight to watch as the colors contrasted giving it a picture post card feel!

The road we took next, Chapman’s highway was like a slick serpent. Lying lazily on the laps of lush green mountains; it zig-zagged through the Mountains, having Atlantic Ocean on one side and steep hills of Chapman’s peak on the other.

Stretches for 9 kms from Hout Bay to Noordhoek beach it was the most scenic coastal highway we travelled so far. It had many view points and we stopped at one to appreciate the Hout bay with the cliff hanging S-Turns and breath taking pull offs that allow you to feel the essence of South Africa. The view of Hout Bay with The Sentinel located at the entrance of harbor on the west was absolutely eye catching.  Dileep Sahasrabuddhe fellow grouper, photographed my various moods at this point when I was not much aware. Even though it might look narcissist I can’t help but to put them here, as they have turned out to be really good! Thanks Dileep!

                                                      

Noordhoek beach was attractive and is home for surfers and as well as causal sea swimmers. It’s a Dutch name meaning “North Corner”! Chapman’s peak can be seen in the north. Sands were silver and waters turquoise blue. Best combination for dip! But could not, due to group compulsions. We had our lunch at the restaurant that was bang on the Noordhoek beach, I forget the name. Food was really good especially sea food, did they serve Shrikhand as a sweet dish I don’t remember but they did have few Indian recipes in the spread!

Traveling along the beach we reached another beach, Boulders beach that has native Penguin population.
South African penguins! They do exist,
I doubted as I always felt Penguins means either Antarctica or Melbourne in Australia; famous for their parade! As compared to Emperor Penguins from Antarctica, (had seen them in Singapore) this species was though smaller had the same grace and cuteness. They have other differences too but I am not here to write a paper on ‘Comparative study of Emperor Penguins and Jack Ass Penguins (as they are also known as)!’ Their waddle with funny movements of their flaps was equally cute. Another feature is the stench! All pervasive and repulsive! Unfortunately due to variety of environmental and other factors their number is dwindling, so efforts are being made to prevent them from extinction.

The Cape Peninsula stretches down still further for many miles, till it reaches Cape of Good Hope. On the way to it there was this ostrich, walking mid-road oblivious of the cars all around it. It reminded of the lasses walking on romp of the Fashion shows, it was that undulating and inviting (!!!)!

Cape of Good Hope! A common misconception is that the Cape of Good Hope is the southernmost tip of South Africa. The fact is, it actually is Cape Agulhas about 90 kms south-east of Cape of Good Hope. It is where the Atlantic and Indian Ocean meet or are supposed to meet. It also is arbitrary like the borders between African nations. I was under impression rather a foolish one that if you own a house in Cape Town, your east side window opens on the Indian Ocean and west side on the Atlantic. In fact Cape Town is totally on the Atlantic Ocean on the west coast of Africa and Indian Ocean is whopping 1000 or more kilometers away on the eastern side! And there is nothing like peninsula at the tip, southern coast of Africa is practically a straight line, stretching up to more than 2000 kms!

Nonetheless Cape of Good Hope has its historical importance as it served the milestone for ships travelling from Europe to India. On the hillock, there is age old Light house and you can reach it by using a funicular. Remnants of ramparts and watching towers are still intact at some places.

Swapnil always searched for different Indian restaurants for our meals. This time it was ‘Tava’ for dinner (I am not going to add ‘H’ as is always done by South Indians) in grandiose mall of Cape Town, Grand Casino and Entertainment World! It really was grandiose and had big casino to add to the merrymaking. Alas multiplex here too did not exhibit any Bollywood flick! Food was Indian so no experimenting but it was really good so I probably overate!

The tour was in its penultimate phase and now we were to fly back home from Johannesburg via Nairobi. But wait, we were going to traverse the entire South Africa by road from West to East coast a distance of around 400 kms. ; At the shortest points and were going to have one night stop (not stand! Strictly tongue in cheek!); in Diaz hotel at Mossel bay.

 

 

 

 

Cape Town 2

Next morning, started with a peculiar problem. I started missing Water Jet in toilet 'sore'ly! But before that let me crack a joke.

A lady was complaining to launderer, "Why don’t you use more soap to wash my panties, they are still not clean!”

Launderer retorts, “Why don’t you rather use more toilet papers?”

I was in soup for using more toilet papers! Never used to get clean feeling with one or two so I used more than 4 to 5 papers. More friction more soreness! Even then I was far away from being happy so started coinciding it with immediate shower. Problem used to arise when I had to use the loo outside the hotel. So desperate I was to return to Mumbai only for water jet. I was so happy in Japan; ah their toilet seats are out of this world!

Okay let it be.

Marathon’s track was going through the square near ‘Jewel of India’. We all gathered there to cheer the runners and other participants. While we were walking down to the square, a police officer, mind you Police Officer on patrolling duty, after looking at Shubha’s diamond Mangal Sutra, cautions, ‘ Please hide that, it’s dangerous!’ It’s said that crime rate in both Cape Town and Johannesburg is alarmingly high! It’s such a shortcoming for such a beautiful continent, because whichever nation you go to  story is the same!

 It was three times ‘Hurray’ for the first participant who was on the wheel chair! It seemed that handicapped people too could participate in the race. We amongst ourselves too had a smallish running race between the two traffic signals of the square. It was really a spirit lifting endeavor.

Next on the agenda was Cape Town’s fascinating botanical garden at the base of Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch, again a Dutch name.

It’s located on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain which gives it fascinating backdrop. It is very well spread over may be over 500 hectors and has many theme based sub gardens. The tree canopy walkway is just out of fantasy land that snakes through having thick forest canopy above and not so deep trench below. It's known 'Boomslang,[ Tree Snake in Afrikaans]. We in Mumbai have one, now at Malabar hills.It has camphor Avenue lined by Camphor trees , type of Cinnamon from China. It has fragrance garden, Medicinal garden and it is home to more than 7000 plant species.

Nice Curio shop with reasonably priced Knick knacks. Bought tee shirt for my grandson with all African animals printed on it. Just outside the curio shop there was this sculpture, African sculpture, GOK what it meant. It looked like voodoo mumbo jumbo, a head pierced with needles of various sizes, nonetheless it was worth a snap, so here I am!  

It was the day for Marathon and practically all the city was
closed for it, traffics diverted roads closed, so moving around in the city was difficult and we could not visit few places on the itinerary. 

Even then Swapnil managed to take us on the city tour. We roamed in the city, saw cricket stadium Newlands Cricket Ground, Mecca of South African cricket; albeit from outside. There was a visit to Diamond cutting and polishing workshop which looked absolutely like any shop from outside. Was it Gem Lab I don’t remember?

Next was visit to Parliament House. And General Library.

It was/is situated in a small lane peculiarly sans any security, no police, and no guards! Any Tom Dick and Harry could have reached the main gate without being interrogated!

All  political administrative decisions are taken from here. Rest two capitals are at Pretoria and Johannesburg. Just next to it is St. Mary’s Cathedral.

It’s the oldest Catholic cathedral in South Africa. Just next to is statue of Colonel Botha, or was it some James Prime Minister in 19th century,  I am not sure.[I forget it].

We visited a curio shop thereafter; its specialty was that it was run by African Women’s group. Bought magnets for fridge which has become must for middle class homes that travel abroad! The street was marked for Marathon so we could see many participants; maybe it was the last leg so some of them were running as if were taking a stroll! 

While crisscrossing Cape Town we passed through an area where houses were brightly painted, rather garishly gaudy would be more correct. It was one of the Muslim areas of Cape Town, Bo-Kaap. Houses were built for Indonesian, Malaysian Indians slaves brought by the Dutch. They were all white when they were still slaves but once they were freed every one painted his house in bright colors to symbolize freedom.  After homework it was evident that it was quite old and is cultural heart of cape Malay community. It houses first mosque of South Africa, Auwal Mosque.

Had lunch at Vichare’s Vintage India again. Food was really good this time again!

Evening was the time for sunset cruise   on the Atlantic Ocean

from Victoria wharf marina. Air was crisp and cool and the ambiance upwardly mobile. Table Mountain in the background accentuated the beauty in twilight. Ferry wheel was not far behind.

Sparkling wine was on the house, no doubt everybody was in high spirits and that showed in their dancing skills. The cruise was actually for sighting the whales as harbor has them but we could not see them, may be because everybody was high on spirits and ambiance. We could see some seals perched on buoys but due to poor light they were hardly visible Everybody danced to their heart’s, content sang full throated leaving the age far behind and enjoyed the present moment!

Cape Town

Flight to Cape Town was like any other 1000 flights taking off everyday all over the world. Totally mundane and uneventful. It takes around 3 hours from Victoria Falls. Like all the other airports in Africa we had visited so far, this one too was just about! Immigration hall was dimly lit and was extremely dingy. On the top of it only two counters were open, so the queues were long. God knows why but they made us stand in separate queue and did not pay attention to us for long time. After may be 45 minutes our queue started moving. Luckily time taken in the queue came handy for picking up the luggage from the belt as it had reached it much earlier.

As our entourage was leaving the premises, at the exit gate 4 or 5 African youths were chitchatting. I was wearing sleeveless Tank top with tattoo on my Left shoulder glaringly visible. One of them pointed at my shoulders and chuckled, ‘Beautiful Muscles!’ Realizing the compliment many from our group started teasing me. ‘It should have been from a girl!’ my wife commented. Nonetheless I was very happy to be appreciated for the efforts I take in gym everyday!

Bus had stinky lavatory in front of our seats. Shubha objected and asked for the bus without one in the coming ventures. (It was to be complied). Cape Town seemed to be town with kaleidoscopic culture and topography. Though roads were wide and clean, were lined by shaggy shanties for a longer distance, immediately in the vicinity of air port. Though they say apartheid has ended but their housing pattern said the otherwise. But about it, later.

South Africa has its governmental business divided in 3 cities that is it has 3 capital cities, Pretoria, Johannesburg and Cape Town. Out of the three Johannesburg is the richest and the biggest while Pretoria is the smallest and practically is the suburb of Johannesburg. Elon Musk comes from Pretoria. While Cape Town has the most beautiful topography. It’s mountainous terrain laced with beautiful beaches and ever youthful Atlantic Ocean. It has bays, beaches and superb greenery!

In South Africa like India where every village, town or city has MG Road South Africa has Nelson Mandela Avenues, roads or streets. Cape Town’s is luxurious. Surprisingly there were hardly any big cars.

No limousines, like Ferrari or Lamborghini, all were midsized family cars like Ignis or Kia back home.   Our hotel in Cape Town, Cresta Grande 4 stars, was located in the heart of city, amidst important commercial establishments. The room allotted to us was so stuffy without any proper view that Shubha had to raise the voice again. This time too our request was accepted immediately and we were shifted to room on 10^th floor, naturally it had better view. Our first lunch, we had at the hotel but subsequent meals   we had at ‘Jewel of India’ Restaurant just one block down.

On the very first evening we visited Cape Town’s famous mall Victoria Wharf on the water front. We stay just opposite the biggest mall of Mumbai so jokingly it is described, like attached bath room, The Benurwars have attached mall! It was/is big well spread out and had all the well known brands, some of which are not available in India. Entire ambiance was African, live dance group performances at strategic points with Western bands playing loud music at the other. Only difference compared to R City Mall was it has water front marina from where the boats leave for sea cruises. It had/has 14 screen multiplex. My curiosity pulled me there. I was disenchanted as none of the screens exhibited Indian films, the industry that produces maximum number of films in the entire world!

Atmosphere was also charged for another reason. Cape Town was to hold its Annual marathon on coming Sunday. Adidas was the official sponsor. So runners from all over the world had gathered in Cape Town, some presented themselves in the mall, holding events to spread the awareness.

Next day’s itinerary depended on the climate. Table Mountain was 1^st on the agenda but as thick canopy of clouds encircled it, it was postponed to late afternoon. Instead we visited University Town of Stellenbosch, just 50 km away from the city center towards east. It’s located in Vineyard County with thriving winery industry of South Africa!  Surrounded by lush green mountains it almost is in the valley.

Cape Town in fact was settled by a Dutch colonial administrator in 1652, who worked for Dutch East India Company. He was supposed to provide Provision Station for the ships on the spice route to India. Thus Dutch left their imprint on the early architecture on Cape Town which is still evident in Stellenbosch.

British came much later in 19^th century and snatched away Cape Town along with neighboring Natal, Transvaal and Orange state by military force. Then initially it was known as Union of South Africa, which is now known as Republic of South Africa.

Stellenbosch is second oldest town in South Africa now famous for a university, a town mostly inhabited by students. Surprisingly I saw only white ones. Even for exception Black students were conspicuously absent! Few groups were whiling away time in road side cafes like any other students from all over the world but none had a colored friend amongst them, forget black! Does apartheid still exist? The answer lied in the history of Stellenbosch. It was cradle of ‘Apartheid’. Around 1950 it was proclaimed as White area and the blacks were forcibly evicted. Several Black establishments like houses, churches and community centers were bulldozed. That’s why post apartheid Stellenbosch is still segregated .It still continues to reckon with legacy of racism. My observation held waters!

The Moederkerk or mother church still stands tall. Building no doubt is grandiose but the soul… it is lacking! It would be worthwhile to know about the numbers, of both whites and colored people. In entire South Africa whites constitute only 7.3% while in Stellenbosch it goes up to 17%. Majority of German, Dutch descents speak Africans which is 13.5% while 10% British descendants speak English. Total black population of South Africa is staggering 81% so it was surprising to note that whites though in very small numbers ruled over such a vast population. How? Was it at the gunpoint?! Was the story in India any different?

 

Stellenbosch is also known for its wineries that produce excellent South African wines. There are around more than 130 wineries/breweries in the surrounding areas. Spier Wine estate the one we were going to visit is/was one of them. It is one of the oldest winery in South Africa established in 1692 and is widely popular too. The parlor for wine testing is ultra modern which used plenty of glass in décor.

My experience in wine testing… wide and deep! Had visited Chougule’s Indage India at Narayangaon, and we were drinking wine from morning to evening! Six wines you were to taste in tandem, 2 partners so I was odd man out. I too voluntarily opted out as after the third wine I start feeling tipsy! But the main participants in the game, my wife Shubha and her partner Jayu turned out to be underdogs so I was made to drink the leftovers! In the end I drank much more wine than them. I forget the names but one was sparkling, two were red and rest white! We ended in purchasing few as some scheme was offered, was it one free on one purchase? We had our lunch at ‘Tadka’ Indian restaurant opposite Rodenbosch metro station owned by Chetan Patel who had supplied food to Indian team when IPLs were held in South Africa in 2009!

Interesting point about the metro, it does not operate as frequently on Saturdays and Sundays!

Table Mountain is the most iconic place to visit in Cape Town. It’s known as Table Mountain not only because its peak is flat like table but also because it’s most of the time is covered by Table Cloth of clouds.  It’s almost like a guardian angel in the north west of city center; standing tall at 1086 meters. It is one of the 7 natural wonders of today’s world. It’s a mountain with flat topped peak that offers panoramic view of Cape Town with Table Bay in the back ground. Of course at the courtesy of climate, when the sky is not overcast with clouds! The blanket of clouds though thinned out it was not sure whether it would reappear. One can reach the top hiking, which of course was not the option for us 70 + crowd, or use a very special cable car that takes you to the top in jiffy.

The specialty of the circular gondola is, its inner platform rotates in 360* degrees giving you the view from all the sides. The clouds cheated on us. Halfway through the ride it was very clear but once we reached the top they gathered again at half the height obscuring the view!  Nothing great to write home about once you reach the top, only rocky terrain with flora and fauna specific to the place. We saw few rodents which are local, known as Dassie. It also has/had varying population of Verreaux Eagles. Number varies according to circumstances. Rest of the species, with visitors in strengths of thousands (it was too, too crowded!) it was well nigh impossible to locate them. I am poor in Botany too so the specificity of flora too went over my head.

The main attraction for me was the panoramic aerial view of Cape Town spread below, once denied of that pleasure I lost the interest!

The neighboring mountain ranges are rugged and breath taking. There are few other peaks too like Devil’s peak to the left and Lion’s head at the western end. Don’t know why but it did not leave much impression on me, may be because it was not ‘That’ spectacular! I may be biased but our Panchgani ‘Table Land’ is much more impressive!

We had dinner at ‘Jewel of India’ for the first time. And it unfolded a totally strange connection!  It turned out that hostess of the restaurant; Kalpana was resident of Lokhandwala Mumbai where my in law practices. She knew him very well when I mentioned Dr. Nabar. World really is so small place!