From Mumbai to Nairobi
5
couples were joining our group from outside of Mumbai, 2 from Bangalore, 1 each
from Nagpur, Pune and Nashik. 1 family of three from Amravati and we 4 from
Mumbai proper. A motley crowd of 22 people, tour operator included. Outstation
group members were asked to report earlier, considering time lapses, and we
Mumbaikars were allowed to join a bit late. According to our previous schedule,
flight to Nairobi, Kenyan capital was slated at 2.45 AM. But due to unforeseen
conditions it was delayed by 2.30 to 3 hours. Even after taking into
consideration the delay we had to reach the airport at around 12 midnight as
per our tour operator Swapnil. Airport from my home is hardly 15 to 20 minutes
of drive sans traffic. Even with traffic it’s not more than an hour. Though
there are many flights from Mumbai at those unearthly hours we cleared the
desks within no time which included Baggage dropping, security check,
immigration with passport and visa checking everything. We were asked to get
vaccinated for Yellow fever as we were flying to endemic countries. Nobody
bothered to ask for it! And we were at the boarding gate at 12.30 AM for a
flight that was to take off at 5.30- 5.45 AM!
Now
whooping 5 hours were at our disposal for doing nothing. Absolutely nothing!
Then I remembered why Changi at Singapore stands well above Mumbai. It has
everything for tourists’ convenience including a multiplex that runs for 24
into 7! First 60 to 90 minutes we spent having chats, coffee and some snacks. The
coffee could not drive away grogginess due to lack of sleep. The chairs ordered
on the scale of dime a dozen, hardly offered any comfort after an hour or so.
Tried to stretch the legs on two adjacent ones but that too was far from
comfortable. All the reclining chairs were occupied by seasoned travelers. In
the end when sleep was uncontrollable; my friend who has spinal deformity went
and simply lied on the floor with sleeping air travel pillow under her head. I
always despised such travelers who make any platform look like representation
of third world country. And here it was top most air port of India! But I too
followed the suit in no time when I too could not resist the sleep. I threw
myself on the floor, absolutely horizontal to mother earth! The one with
erudite upbringing, respectable post graduation degree in Medicine, more than
40 years of medical practice as background and respectable standing in society
slept on the floor like any average Indian traveler catching train to Zumari
Tallaiyya! But let me tell you that helped. That small nap of 60 to 70 minutes
really refreshed and we were ready to board the flight at 6 AM!
I
don’t know what’s the strategy but small time operators, ours was Kenya
airways, are extremely stingy while offering comfortable seats to travelers. A
person like me who is quite tall by Indian standards hardly fits into those
cramped seats, cramped is understatement! After juggling with breakfast I tried
to catch few winks but that seat eluded me even that small comfort! Contrary to
my expectations flight was full with mostly Indians and few whites, hardly any
black. Except the crew, it was all black! Of course!! That was little
unexpected for the eyes which were used to visualize hostesses in quite a
different perspective! I don’t know what the national dress of Kenya is but
they all wore western outfits, Hair braided in African style, everyone having
different one with a string of African beads worn on the top not reaching
forehead like Indian Bindi. They spoke good English and were efficient in their
work. Plane landed on the Nairobi airport at around 9.30 AM, ( they are 3 and
half hours behind us) after almost 6 and half hours of flight with the speed of
Dombivali slow, at least that’s what I felt!
Though
Nairobi is gateway to the eastern Africa, the air port was strictly workable,
nothing grandiose or even pompous about it. The popular belief that is
generally misconstrued about African persona comes crashing down when one is
actually on the African soil! Surrounded
by Africans on all the sides, there was nothing ferocious, intimidating or
scary. They all were normal human beings just like you me and everybody, with
average heights, lighter shades and friendly persona! There is a reason why I
am saying so. While in New York we frequently used subway even though Shubha’s
cousin was not happy about it. Her concern was mugging even in broad day light.
I cannot say that it was unfounded. New York’s subways are frequented mostly by
the blacks. Compartment fully loaded with weird looking; gaudily made up blacks
with strange sense of clothing and every possible site on the face, be it nose,
tongue or lips pierced it was scary. There is reason for American blacks to be
loud. It’s to ascertain their being, and
proclaim their existence Vis a Vis whites. Here in their own territory it was
not necessary!
Plan
was to go to the national parks directly from airport. The 2 by 3 jeeps/wagons
did not have sufficient space to load our big heavy bags. So we were asked to
have our essentials for three days in a smaller bag and bigger bags would be
dispatched to Hotel in Nairobi. Our driver was youngish adult in, probably his
late twenties and defied all the norms that are misconstrued about African
Black male. He was hardly 5 feet 8 inches tall, medium built, much less dark by
African standards, ,no typical African facial features ( Thick Lips, big
nose)and very cheerful! Next almost four
hours of drive to Lake Nakuru he made wonderfully chirpy!
While
leaving Nairobi it showed that it’s a capital city. Wide and smooth roads, ‘N’
number of flyovers passing above and below you, lined by posh buildings
initially and later by many industries. But as we traversed more, it was
exactly like New Delhi and Melghat. From extreme abundance of development to wanting
a single drop of water for parched throat! We crossed many villages with shanty
towns those were holding weekly bazaars on the open road. They mostly sold
fruits and daily groceries but also everything in plastic from slippers to
buckets in provisionally erected shades! People buying and selling them looked
as if they don’t know what prosperity is!
Unfortunately the tar road does not go up to Lake Nakuru national park, we had to detour and it was “Country Road” take me home! At times not even a single lane, it was extremely dusty and full of uneven potholes. One has to enter the park by paying the fees. Formalities were completed by Swapnil and we entered Lake Nakuru National park. In a way our African Safari had started in the truest sense and at the outset itself we were welcome by a cartload of monkeys. So many of them in different sizes, shapes and ages. May be 50 to 60 in number.
Their faces were totally different than the Indian monkeys’; though dark they were not langoors. Nose was exceptionally long almost occupying the entire face and then jutting down to chin. They were ‘Baboons’! Few budged but most refused to leave the road. May be they were acclimatized to encroachment of such jeeps on their territory. Driver honked, tried to subvert but hardly few complied.
One of them, may be the leader of troupe did not move from his place even an inch. On the contrary he was staring at the vehicle nonchalantly as if challenging it! Our driver gave in; he put the jeep on the embankment and proceeded further. Our first encounter with the ‘Wild!’
On the sides were the backwaters of Lake Nakuru. It gave us the short glimpse about what’s in the store! By 2 -2.15 we reached Hotel Sarova Lion Hill Lodge. It is set along the Lion hills. Rooms were already allotted (proficiency of Kesari Travels).
They are chalet type cottages fully equipped with modern amenities. It was lunch time already so after getting refreshed it was time for food. The spread was vast and liberal. Veg, Non- veg with Indian cuisine thrown in! I always wanted to try ‘Meat” barbeque. Tried and tested but did not approve. It was too chewy and had peculiar flavor maybe of oil used for frying, mostly they use pork lard! As choice was vast there was no question of starving, fully loaded returned to the cottage for short nap as the true ‘African Safari’ was to start in few instants!
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