Cape Town 2

Next morning, started with a peculiar problem. I started missing Water Jet in toilet 'sore'ly! But before that let me crack a joke.

A lady was complaining to launderer, "Why don’t you use more soap to wash my panties, they are still not clean!”

Launderer retorts, “Why don’t you rather use more toilet papers?”

I was in soup for using more toilet papers! Never used to get clean feeling with one or two so I used more than 4 to 5 papers. More friction more soreness! Even then I was far away from being happy so started coinciding it with immediate shower. Problem used to arise when I had to use the loo outside the hotel. So desperate I was to return to Mumbai only for water jet. I was so happy in Japan; ah their toilet seats are out of this world!

Okay let it be.

Marathon’s track was going through the square near ‘Jewel of India’. We all gathered there to cheer the runners and other participants. While we were walking down to the square, a police officer, mind you Police Officer on patrolling duty, after looking at Shubha’s diamond Mangal Sutra, cautions, ‘ Please hide that, it’s dangerous!’ It’s said that crime rate in both Cape Town and Johannesburg is alarmingly high! It’s such a shortcoming for such a beautiful continent, because whichever nation you go to  story is the same!

 It was three times ‘Hurray’ for the first participant who was on the wheel chair! It seemed that handicapped people too could participate in the race. We amongst ourselves too had a smallish running race between the two traffic signals of the square. It was really a spirit lifting endeavor.

Next on the agenda was Cape Town’s fascinating botanical garden at the base of Table Mountain, Kirstenbosch, again a Dutch name.

It’s located on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain which gives it fascinating backdrop. It is very well spread over may be over 500 hectors and has many theme based sub gardens. The tree canopy walkway is just out of fantasy land that snakes through having thick forest canopy above and not so deep trench below. It's known 'Boomslang,[ Tree Snake in Afrikaans]. We in Mumbai have one, now at Malabar hills.It has camphor Avenue lined by Camphor trees , type of Cinnamon from China. It has fragrance garden, Medicinal garden and it is home to more than 7000 plant species.

Nice Curio shop with reasonably priced Knick knacks. Bought tee shirt for my grandson with all African animals printed on it. Just outside the curio shop there was this sculpture, African sculpture, GOK what it meant. It looked like voodoo mumbo jumbo, a head pierced with needles of various sizes, nonetheless it was worth a snap, so here I am!  

It was the day for Marathon and practically all the city was
closed for it, traffics diverted roads closed, so moving around in the city was difficult and we could not visit few places on the itinerary. 

Even then Swapnil managed to take us on the city tour. We roamed in the city, saw cricket stadium Newlands Cricket Ground, Mecca of South African cricket; albeit from outside. There was a visit to Diamond cutting and polishing workshop which looked absolutely like any shop from outside. Was it Gem Lab I don’t remember?

Next was visit to Parliament House. And General Library.

It was/is situated in a small lane peculiarly sans any security, no police, and no guards! Any Tom Dick and Harry could have reached the main gate without being interrogated!

All  political administrative decisions are taken from here. Rest two capitals are at Pretoria and Johannesburg. Just next to it is St. Mary’s Cathedral.

It’s the oldest Catholic cathedral in South Africa. Just next to is statue of Colonel Botha, or was it some James Prime Minister in 19th century,  I am not sure.[I forget it].

We visited a curio shop thereafter; its specialty was that it was run by African Women’s group. Bought magnets for fridge which has become must for middle class homes that travel abroad! The street was marked for Marathon so we could see many participants; maybe it was the last leg so some of them were running as if were taking a stroll! 

While crisscrossing Cape Town we passed through an area where houses were brightly painted, rather garishly gaudy would be more correct. It was one of the Muslim areas of Cape Town, Bo-Kaap. Houses were built for Indonesian, Malaysian Indians slaves brought by the Dutch. They were all white when they were still slaves but once they were freed every one painted his house in bright colors to symbolize freedom.  After homework it was evident that it was quite old and is cultural heart of cape Malay community. It houses first mosque of South Africa, Auwal Mosque.

Had lunch at Vichare’s Vintage India again. Food was really good this time again!

Evening was the time for sunset cruise   on the Atlantic Ocean

from Victoria wharf marina. Air was crisp and cool and the ambiance upwardly mobile. Table Mountain in the background accentuated the beauty in twilight. Ferry wheel was not far behind.

Sparkling wine was on the house, no doubt everybody was in high spirits and that showed in their dancing skills. The cruise was actually for sighting the whales as harbor has them but we could not see them, may be because everybody was high on spirits and ambiance. We could see some seals perched on buoys but due to poor light they were hardly visible Everybody danced to their heart’s, content sang full throated leaving the age far behind and enjoyed the present moment!

Cape Town

Flight to Cape Town was like any other 1000 flights taking off everyday all over the world. Totally mundane and uneventful. It takes around 3 hours from Victoria Falls. Like all the other airports in Africa we had visited so far, this one too was just about! Immigration hall was dimly lit and was extremely dingy. On the top of it only two counters were open, so the queues were long. God knows why but they made us stand in separate queue and did not pay attention to us for long time. After may be 45 minutes our queue started moving. Luckily time taken in the queue came handy for picking up the luggage from the belt as it had reached it much earlier.

As our entourage was leaving the premises, at the exit gate 4 or 5 African youths were chitchatting. I was wearing sleeveless Tank top with tattoo on my Left shoulder glaringly visible. One of them pointed at my shoulders and chuckled, ‘Beautiful Muscles!’ Realizing the compliment many from our group started teasing me. ‘It should have been from a girl!’ my wife commented. Nonetheless I was very happy to be appreciated for the efforts I take in gym everyday!

Bus had stinky lavatory in front of our seats. Shubha objected and asked for the bus without one in the coming ventures. (It was to be complied). Cape Town seemed to be town with kaleidoscopic culture and topography. Though roads were wide and clean, were lined by shaggy shanties for a longer distance, immediately in the vicinity of air port. Though they say apartheid has ended but their housing pattern said the otherwise. But about it, later.

South Africa has its governmental business divided in 3 cities that is it has 3 capital cities, Pretoria, Johannesburg and Cape Town. Out of the three Johannesburg is the richest and the biggest while Pretoria is the smallest and practically is the suburb of Johannesburg. Elon Musk comes from Pretoria. While Cape Town has the most beautiful topography. It’s mountainous terrain laced with beautiful beaches and ever youthful Atlantic Ocean. It has bays, beaches and superb greenery!

In South Africa like India where every village, town or city has MG Road South Africa has Nelson Mandela Avenues, roads or streets. Cape Town’s is luxurious. Surprisingly there were hardly any big cars.

No limousines, like Ferrari or Lamborghini, all were midsized family cars like Ignis or Kia back home.   Our hotel in Cape Town, Cresta Grande 4 stars, was located in the heart of city, amidst important commercial establishments. The room allotted to us was so stuffy without any proper view that Shubha had to raise the voice again. This time too our request was accepted immediately and we were shifted to room on 10^th floor, naturally it had better view. Our first lunch, we had at the hotel but subsequent meals   we had at ‘Jewel of India’ Restaurant just one block down.

On the very first evening we visited Cape Town’s famous mall Victoria Wharf on the water front. We stay just opposite the biggest mall of Mumbai so jokingly it is described, like attached bath room, The Benurwars have attached mall! It was/is big well spread out and had all the well known brands, some of which are not available in India. Entire ambiance was African, live dance group performances at strategic points with Western bands playing loud music at the other. Only difference compared to R City Mall was it has water front marina from where the boats leave for sea cruises. It had/has 14 screen multiplex. My curiosity pulled me there. I was disenchanted as none of the screens exhibited Indian films, the industry that produces maximum number of films in the entire world!

Atmosphere was also charged for another reason. Cape Town was to hold its Annual marathon on coming Sunday. Adidas was the official sponsor. So runners from all over the world had gathered in Cape Town, some presented themselves in the mall, holding events to spread the awareness.

Next day’s itinerary depended on the climate. Table Mountain was 1^st on the agenda but as thick canopy of clouds encircled it, it was postponed to late afternoon. Instead we visited University Town of Stellenbosch, just 50 km away from the city center towards east. It’s located in Vineyard County with thriving winery industry of South Africa!  Surrounded by lush green mountains it almost is in the valley.

Cape Town in fact was settled by a Dutch colonial administrator in 1652, who worked for Dutch East India Company. He was supposed to provide Provision Station for the ships on the spice route to India. Thus Dutch left their imprint on the early architecture on Cape Town which is still evident in Stellenbosch.

British came much later in 19^th century and snatched away Cape Town along with neighboring Natal, Transvaal and Orange state by military force. Then initially it was known as Union of South Africa, which is now known as Republic of South Africa.

Stellenbosch is second oldest town in South Africa now famous for a university, a town mostly inhabited by students. Surprisingly I saw only white ones. Even for exception Black students were conspicuously absent! Few groups were whiling away time in road side cafes like any other students from all over the world but none had a colored friend amongst them, forget black! Does apartheid still exist? The answer lied in the history of Stellenbosch. It was cradle of ‘Apartheid’. Around 1950 it was proclaimed as White area and the blacks were forcibly evicted. Several Black establishments like houses, churches and community centers were bulldozed. That’s why post apartheid Stellenbosch is still segregated .It still continues to reckon with legacy of racism. My observation held waters!

The Moederkerk or mother church still stands tall. Building no doubt is grandiose but the soul… it is lacking! It would be worthwhile to know about the numbers, of both whites and colored people. In entire South Africa whites constitute only 7.3% while in Stellenbosch it goes up to 17%. Majority of German, Dutch descents speak Africans which is 13.5% while 10% British descendants speak English. Total black population of South Africa is staggering 81% so it was surprising to note that whites though in very small numbers ruled over such a vast population. How? Was it at the gunpoint?! Was the story in India any different?

 

Stellenbosch is also known for its wineries that produce excellent South African wines. There are around more than 130 wineries/breweries in the surrounding areas. Spier Wine estate the one we were going to visit is/was one of them. It is one of the oldest winery in South Africa established in 1692 and is widely popular too. The parlor for wine testing is ultra modern which used plenty of glass in décor.

My experience in wine testing… wide and deep! Had visited Chougule’s Indage India at Narayangaon, and we were drinking wine from morning to evening! Six wines you were to taste in tandem, 2 partners so I was odd man out. I too voluntarily opted out as after the third wine I start feeling tipsy! But the main participants in the game, my wife Shubha and her partner Jayu turned out to be underdogs so I was made to drink the leftovers! In the end I drank much more wine than them. I forget the names but one was sparkling, two were red and rest white! We ended in purchasing few as some scheme was offered, was it one free on one purchase? We had our lunch at ‘Tadka’ Indian restaurant opposite Rodenbosch metro station owned by Chetan Patel who had supplied food to Indian team when IPLs were held in South Africa in 2009!

Interesting point about the metro, it does not operate as frequently on Saturdays and Sundays!

Table Mountain is the most iconic place to visit in Cape Town. It’s known as Table Mountain not only because its peak is flat like table but also because it’s most of the time is covered by Table Cloth of clouds.  It’s almost like a guardian angel in the north west of city center; standing tall at 1086 meters. It is one of the 7 natural wonders of today’s world. It’s a mountain with flat topped peak that offers panoramic view of Cape Town with Table Bay in the back ground. Of course at the courtesy of climate, when the sky is not overcast with clouds! The blanket of clouds though thinned out it was not sure whether it would reappear. One can reach the top hiking, which of course was not the option for us 70 + crowd, or use a very special cable car that takes you to the top in jiffy.

The specialty of the circular gondola is, its inner platform rotates in 360* degrees giving you the view from all the sides. The clouds cheated on us. Halfway through the ride it was very clear but once we reached the top they gathered again at half the height obscuring the view!  Nothing great to write home about once you reach the top, only rocky terrain with flora and fauna specific to the place. We saw few rodents which are local, known as Dassie. It also has/had varying population of Verreaux Eagles. Number varies according to circumstances. Rest of the species, with visitors in strengths of thousands (it was too, too crowded!) it was well nigh impossible to locate them. I am poor in Botany too so the specificity of flora too went over my head.

The main attraction for me was the panoramic aerial view of Cape Town spread below, once denied of that pleasure I lost the interest!

The neighboring mountain ranges are rugged and breath taking. There are few other peaks too like Devil’s peak to the left and Lion’s head at the western end. Don’t know why but it did not leave much impression on me, may be because it was not ‘That’ spectacular! I may be biased but our Panchgani ‘Table Land’ is much more impressive!

We had dinner at ‘Jewel of India’ for the first time. And it unfolded a totally strange connection!  It turned out that hostess of the restaurant; Kalpana was resident of Lokhandwala Mumbai where my in law practices. She knew him very well when I mentioned Dr. Nabar. World really is so small place!

 

 

 

Mosi-oa-Tunya  [Victoria Falls]

Set on the borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe it’s not the only highlight of Zimbabwe. Like any other African country Zimbabwe too has rich wild life comprising of all the big four. Plus it’s the only country in the world to have maximum number of rock paintings dating back to thousands of years. May be for want of time, Victoria Falls was the only one on the agenda. Though English is spoken widely it has more than 14 commonly spoken languages, another India? (Coffee table knowledge: Papua New Guinea has the world record of having maximum number of languages still in use!)

Like any other country in colonial Africa Zimbabwe too has tumultuous history. Previously known as South Rhodesia, it faced so many problems that it was about to collapse any time. At times the inflation was so high that to buy one loaf of bread one had to shell out piles and piles of currency notes. So it was jokingly said, ‘Poor Millionaire’ who has millions but cannot buy a single loaf of bread!

Like every recently liberated African nation it had many upheavals. It was doing, may be great under Mugabe but times changed and like every other African leader of those times he too had to face the heat. As of now Zimbabwe is still struggling on the economic front and has accepted multi-currency economy. All four major currencies, Dollar, Pound, Euro and Yuan are freely accepted. We did not have to bother as ours was conducted tour and one never had to deal with actual cash.

We were woken up by the gentle rays of morning sun peeping in our room through the curtains. Sunrise is always so invigorating! Today was the day to visit one of the 7 natural wonders of the world, Mosi-oa-Tunya, THE Victoria Falls.

Breakfast at Elephant Hill resort was fit for the Kings. Spread lavishly with dishes from all over the world. It was really treat for me! I don’t know how to put it without sounding vulgar but I have to. All the African waitresses serving in the restaurant were buxom! Well endowed on all the fronts. Few of them, so well that they formed the shape of ‘S’! They were so opposite to the girls we used to call in our Medical college days, ‘Dorso-ventrally’ flattened! I am extremely sorry if I have offended anybody’s sensibilities but it is what it is! (Kidding!)

Victoria Falls are in Victoria Falls national park and one has to pay hefty entry fees in Dollars. $ 58 for Non Zimbabwean and $ 7 for locals. Even fellow Africans are charged like rest of the world. Here the discrepancy is very evident. The camaraderie amongst the African Black is so thick that no one proclaims to be Kenyan or Ugandan when casually addressed to; it’s always ‘African Blacks!’ Here in Asia when we say Asians White World takes it to be only Japanese, Chinese or Koreans. Indians or Filipinas have to clarify distinctly! May be it is dictum but at the entrance of the national park we were greeted by a troupe of African dancers. They asked me to join and me too complied shaking a leg or two!

It’s 2^nd biggest/largest fall in the world, next only to Iguaçu falls on the border of Brazil and Argentina. Niagara stands poor third in every aspect, height, length, width and water volume.

There is trail of 14 spots to view the falls from different angles. Zambezi River after traversing languidly on the plains of Zambia like silver serpent spreads in to a mile long bed of water that’s hardly deep before plunging in to chasm in the canyon over  steep cliff. It straddles between borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe before taking the final plunge. It plummets into Boiling Pot, the base of the falls.

Colossal curtain of water that plunges around 350 feet deep in the chasm creates a veil of mist with thunder. Known as Mosi-oa-Tunya in local language, Mist with thunder!

It has different nomenclature for different gorges. The first one is Devil’s cataract, that’s in Zimbabwe. Here the cataract means large body of water. It is followed by Main falls, that too in Zimbabwe. Rest all of them are in Zambia. They are Devil’s pool, Angel’s pool, Horse shoe falls, Rainbow falls, Devil’s pool 2 and last, the East cataract! But in fact the entire fall is better viewed from Zimbabwe side as the cliff of canyon runs parallel to the falls.

When we set out to see the falls, at the out set there was statue of David Livingstone a Scottish doctor, who invented (?!) the falls. He named it after Queen Victoria immediately, the then queen of Britain! In India there was ‘N’ number of traitors who backstabbed their masters at the slightest pretext, while the entire white explorer was always loyal to their Kings, Queens or Monarchs even though they did not deserve the servitude!  

The first sighting of the falls itself made me wonder with excitement laced with fear of the monstrous power of the nature.

It was that ferocious. Waters, waters and waters gushing in thousands of liters in one go was enthralling and fierce at the same time.

For second point one has to descend down on the slippery steps to a viewing gallery. I had to take help of Shubha my wife; maybe we were holding the hands, eons after ‘Saat Feras’ in the wedding!  It again unfolded a view straight out of National Geographic. Two cliffs of canyon on the both side and Zambezi River in its fearsome avatar of Devil’s cataract at the center! As we followed the trail the splash of water became denser and denser. As the water hits the base with force it sends out water droplets in upward direction.

Spindrift, the splash of spray was so heavy that it almost amounted to incessant rains!  We were given raincoats no doubt but the downpour was so heavy that it did not help much. We were drenched to the core. Plus the water in the shoes!!

As we started the trail, the viewpoints really offered view of fall from different angles. Initially the mist was thin so one could see the cascades after cascades of roaring water gushing down with great thrust. By the time we reached the main fall this spindrift made such a thick veil of water that the fall was not visible at all. The last point is appropriately called as danger point. It’s on a narrow pinnacle from where one can have good view of the fall in its entirety. It was so slippery due to continuous splashes that I could not reach it without the help. Uday tried to help me but even then I lost the balance and was going to have another fracture. Timely catch by Uday prevented me from falling flat!

The façade of falls changes according to the volume of water. In dry season the topography of falls is appreciated better with each gorge presenting its form distinctly. And one can reach the base rather easily. It looks like the picture above known as boiling pot!  May be we were unfortunate, even though the season was appropriate according to the brochures water was in so much tremendous volume that the entire view of the falls could not be visualized!

We walked down to Zambezi Bridge that connects both Zambia and Zimbabwe by road and rail. The gorge below is site for water sports, river rafting while the bridge itself is the platform for bungee jumping. We could not be game for both, obviously!

Wild life around the falls is vibrant too. Though we did not see any of big four we saw few Mongooses! Back in the hotel after lunch at Gujrati inn, I was so tired that I immersed myself in tub full of waters (again!) this time soothingly warm!

I feel one has to have his own philosophy of life, if one does not have he has to make it. So I skipped the lecture by fellow member. ‘Manki Baat’ and stretched on the bed to have nice slumber!

After nice dinner it was time to hit the bed as again the next morning we were to catch a flight to Cape Town!