Cape Town

Flight to Cape Town was like any other 1000 flights taking off everyday all over the world. Totally mundane and uneventful. It takes around 3 hours from Victoria Falls. Like all the other airports in Africa we had visited so far, this one too was just about! Immigration hall was dimly lit and was extremely dingy. On the top of it only two counters were open, so the queues were long. God knows why but they made us stand in separate queue and did not pay attention to us for long time. After may be 45 minutes our queue started moving. Luckily time taken in the queue came handy for picking up the luggage from the belt as it had reached it much earlier.

As our entourage was leaving the premises, at the exit gate 4 or 5 African youths were chitchatting. I was wearing sleeveless Tank top with tattoo on my Left shoulder glaringly visible. One of them pointed at my shoulders and chuckled, ‘Beautiful Muscles!’ Realizing the compliment many from our group started teasing me. ‘It should have been from a girl!’ my wife commented. Nonetheless I was very happy to be appreciated for the efforts I take in gym everyday!

Bus had stinky lavatory in front of our seats. Shubha objected and asked for the bus without one in the coming ventures. (It was to be complied). Cape Town seemed to be town with kaleidoscopic culture and topography. Though roads were wide and clean, were lined by shaggy shanties for a longer distance, immediately in the vicinity of air port. Though they say apartheid has ended but their housing pattern said the otherwise. But about it, later.

South Africa has its governmental business divided in 3 cities that is it has 3 capital cities, Pretoria, Johannesburg and Cape Town. Out of the three Johannesburg is the richest and the biggest while Pretoria is the smallest and practically is the suburb of Johannesburg. Elon Musk comes from Pretoria. While Cape Town has the most beautiful topography. It’s mountainous terrain laced with beautiful beaches and ever youthful Atlantic Ocean. It has bays, beaches and superb greenery!

In South Africa like India where every village, town or city has MG Road South Africa has Nelson Mandela Avenues, roads or streets. Cape Town’s is luxurious. Surprisingly there were hardly any big cars.

No limousines, like Ferrari or Lamborghini, all were midsized family cars like Ignis or Kia back home.   Our hotel in Cape Town, Cresta Grande 4 stars, was located in the heart of city, amidst important commercial establishments. The room allotted to us was so stuffy without any proper view that Shubha had to raise the voice again. This time too our request was accepted immediately and we were shifted to room on 10^th floor, naturally it had better view. Our first lunch, we had at the hotel but subsequent meals   we had at ‘Jewel of India’ Restaurant just one block down.

On the very first evening we visited Cape Town’s famous mall Victoria Wharf on the water front. We stay just opposite the biggest mall of Mumbai so jokingly it is described, like attached bath room, The Benurwars have attached mall! It was/is big well spread out and had all the well known brands, some of which are not available in India. Entire ambiance was African, live dance group performances at strategic points with Western bands playing loud music at the other. Only difference compared to R City Mall was it has water front marina from where the boats leave for sea cruises. It had/has 14 screen multiplex. My curiosity pulled me there. I was disenchanted as none of the screens exhibited Indian films, the industry that produces maximum number of films in the entire world!

Atmosphere was also charged for another reason. Cape Town was to hold its Annual marathon on coming Sunday. Adidas was the official sponsor. So runners from all over the world had gathered in Cape Town, some presented themselves in the mall, holding events to spread the awareness.

Next day’s itinerary depended on the climate. Table Mountain was 1^st on the agenda but as thick canopy of clouds encircled it, it was postponed to late afternoon. Instead we visited University Town of Stellenbosch, just 50 km away from the city center towards east. It’s located in Vineyard County with thriving winery industry of South Africa!  Surrounded by lush green mountains it almost is in the valley.

Cape Town in fact was settled by a Dutch colonial administrator in 1652, who worked for Dutch East India Company. He was supposed to provide Provision Station for the ships on the spice route to India. Thus Dutch left their imprint on the early architecture on Cape Town which is still evident in Stellenbosch.

British came much later in 19^th century and snatched away Cape Town along with neighboring Natal, Transvaal and Orange state by military force. Then initially it was known as Union of South Africa, which is now known as Republic of South Africa.

Stellenbosch is second oldest town in South Africa now famous for a university, a town mostly inhabited by students. Surprisingly I saw only white ones. Even for exception Black students were conspicuously absent! Few groups were whiling away time in road side cafes like any other students from all over the world but none had a colored friend amongst them, forget black! Does apartheid still exist? The answer lied in the history of Stellenbosch. It was cradle of ‘Apartheid’. Around 1950 it was proclaimed as White area and the blacks were forcibly evicted. Several Black establishments like houses, churches and community centers were bulldozed. That’s why post apartheid Stellenbosch is still segregated .It still continues to reckon with legacy of racism. My observation held waters!

The Moederkerk or mother church still stands tall. Building no doubt is grandiose but the soul… it is lacking! It would be worthwhile to know about the numbers, of both whites and colored people. In entire South Africa whites constitute only 7.3% while in Stellenbosch it goes up to 17%. Majority of German, Dutch descents speak Africans which is 13.5% while 10% British descendants speak English. Total black population of South Africa is staggering 81% so it was surprising to note that whites though in very small numbers ruled over such a vast population. How? Was it at the gunpoint?! Was the story in India any different?

 

Stellenbosch is also known for its wineries that produce excellent South African wines. There are around more than 130 wineries/breweries in the surrounding areas. Spier Wine estate the one we were going to visit is/was one of them. It is one of the oldest winery in South Africa established in 1692 and is widely popular too. The parlor for wine testing is ultra modern which used plenty of glass in décor.

My experience in wine testing… wide and deep! Had visited Chougule’s Indage India at Narayangaon, and we were drinking wine from morning to evening! Six wines you were to taste in tandem, 2 partners so I was odd man out. I too voluntarily opted out as after the third wine I start feeling tipsy! But the main participants in the game, my wife Shubha and her partner Jayu turned out to be underdogs so I was made to drink the leftovers! In the end I drank much more wine than them. I forget the names but one was sparkling, two were red and rest white! We ended in purchasing few as some scheme was offered, was it one free on one purchase? We had our lunch at ‘Tadka’ Indian restaurant opposite Rodenbosch metro station owned by Chetan Patel who had supplied food to Indian team when IPLs were held in South Africa in 2009!

Interesting point about the metro, it does not operate as frequently on Saturdays and Sundays!

Table Mountain is the most iconic place to visit in Cape Town. It’s known as Table Mountain not only because its peak is flat like table but also because it’s most of the time is covered by Table Cloth of clouds.  It’s almost like a guardian angel in the north west of city center; standing tall at 1086 meters. It is one of the 7 natural wonders of today’s world. It’s a mountain with flat topped peak that offers panoramic view of Cape Town with Table Bay in the back ground. Of course at the courtesy of climate, when the sky is not overcast with clouds! The blanket of clouds though thinned out it was not sure whether it would reappear. One can reach the top hiking, which of course was not the option for us 70 + crowd, or use a very special cable car that takes you to the top in jiffy.

The specialty of the circular gondola is, its inner platform rotates in 360* degrees giving you the view from all the sides. The clouds cheated on us. Halfway through the ride it was very clear but once we reached the top they gathered again at half the height obscuring the view!  Nothing great to write home about once you reach the top, only rocky terrain with flora and fauna specific to the place. We saw few rodents which are local, known as Dassie. It also has/had varying population of Verreaux Eagles. Number varies according to circumstances. Rest of the species, with visitors in strengths of thousands (it was too, too crowded!) it was well nigh impossible to locate them. I am poor in Botany too so the specificity of flora too went over my head.

The main attraction for me was the panoramic aerial view of Cape Town spread below, once denied of that pleasure I lost the interest!

The neighboring mountain ranges are rugged and breath taking. There are few other peaks too like Devil’s peak to the left and Lion’s head at the western end. Don’t know why but it did not leave much impression on me, may be because it was not ‘That’ spectacular! I may be biased but our Panchgani ‘Table Land’ is much more impressive!

We had dinner at ‘Jewel of India’ for the first time. And it unfolded a totally strange connection!  It turned out that hostess of the restaurant; Kalpana was resident of Lokhandwala Mumbai where my in law practices. She knew him very well when I mentioned Dr. Nabar. World really is so small place!

 

 

 

Mosi-oa-Tunya  [Victoria Falls]

Set on the borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe it’s not the only highlight of Zimbabwe. Like any other African country Zimbabwe too has rich wild life comprising of all the big four. Plus it’s the only country in the world to have maximum number of rock paintings dating back to thousands of years. May be for want of time, Victoria Falls was the only one on the agenda. Though English is spoken widely it has more than 14 commonly spoken languages, another India? (Coffee table knowledge: Papua New Guinea has the world record of having maximum number of languages still in use!)

Like any other country in colonial Africa Zimbabwe too has tumultuous history. Previously known as South Rhodesia, it faced so many problems that it was about to collapse any time. At times the inflation was so high that to buy one loaf of bread one had to shell out piles and piles of currency notes. So it was jokingly said, ‘Poor Millionaire’ who has millions but cannot buy a single loaf of bread!

Like every recently liberated African nation it had many upheavals. It was doing, may be great under Mugabe but times changed and like every other African leader of those times he too had to face the heat. As of now Zimbabwe is still struggling on the economic front and has accepted multi-currency economy. All four major currencies, Dollar, Pound, Euro and Yuan are freely accepted. We did not have to bother as ours was conducted tour and one never had to deal with actual cash.

We were woken up by the gentle rays of morning sun peeping in our room through the curtains. Sunrise is always so invigorating! Today was the day to visit one of the 7 natural wonders of the world, Mosi-oa-Tunya, THE Victoria Falls.

Breakfast at Elephant Hill resort was fit for the Kings. Spread lavishly with dishes from all over the world. It was really treat for me! I don’t know how to put it without sounding vulgar but I have to. All the African waitresses serving in the restaurant were buxom! Well endowed on all the fronts. Few of them, so well that they formed the shape of ‘S’! They were so opposite to the girls we used to call in our Medical college days, ‘Dorso-ventrally’ flattened! I am extremely sorry if I have offended anybody’s sensibilities but it is what it is! (Kidding!)

Victoria Falls are in Victoria Falls national park and one has to pay hefty entry fees in Dollars. $ 58 for Non Zimbabwean and $ 7 for locals. Even fellow Africans are charged like rest of the world. Here the discrepancy is very evident. The camaraderie amongst the African Black is so thick that no one proclaims to be Kenyan or Ugandan when casually addressed to; it’s always ‘African Blacks!’ Here in Asia when we say Asians White World takes it to be only Japanese, Chinese or Koreans. Indians or Filipinas have to clarify distinctly! May be it is dictum but at the entrance of the national park we were greeted by a troupe of African dancers. They asked me to join and me too complied shaking a leg or two!

It’s 2^nd biggest/largest fall in the world, next only to Iguaçu falls on the border of Brazil and Argentina. Niagara stands poor third in every aspect, height, length, width and water volume.

There is trail of 14 spots to view the falls from different angles. Zambezi River after traversing languidly on the plains of Zambia like silver serpent spreads in to a mile long bed of water that’s hardly deep before plunging in to chasm in the canyon over  steep cliff. It straddles between borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe before taking the final plunge. It plummets into Boiling Pot, the base of the falls.

Colossal curtain of water that plunges around 350 feet deep in the chasm creates a veil of mist with thunder. Known as Mosi-oa-Tunya in local language, Mist with thunder!

It has different nomenclature for different gorges. The first one is Devil’s cataract, that’s in Zimbabwe. Here the cataract means large body of water. It is followed by Main falls, that too in Zimbabwe. Rest all of them are in Zambia. They are Devil’s pool, Angel’s pool, Horse shoe falls, Rainbow falls, Devil’s pool 2 and last, the East cataract! But in fact the entire fall is better viewed from Zimbabwe side as the cliff of canyon runs parallel to the falls.

When we set out to see the falls, at the out set there was statue of David Livingstone a Scottish doctor, who invented (?!) the falls. He named it after Queen Victoria immediately, the then queen of Britain! In India there was ‘N’ number of traitors who backstabbed their masters at the slightest pretext, while the entire white explorer was always loyal to their Kings, Queens or Monarchs even though they did not deserve the servitude!  

The first sighting of the falls itself made me wonder with excitement laced with fear of the monstrous power of the nature.

It was that ferocious. Waters, waters and waters gushing in thousands of liters in one go was enthralling and fierce at the same time.

For second point one has to descend down on the slippery steps to a viewing gallery. I had to take help of Shubha my wife; maybe we were holding the hands, eons after ‘Saat Feras’ in the wedding!  It again unfolded a view straight out of National Geographic. Two cliffs of canyon on the both side and Zambezi River in its fearsome avatar of Devil’s cataract at the center! As we followed the trail the splash of water became denser and denser. As the water hits the base with force it sends out water droplets in upward direction.

Spindrift, the splash of spray was so heavy that it almost amounted to incessant rains!  We were given raincoats no doubt but the downpour was so heavy that it did not help much. We were drenched to the core. Plus the water in the shoes!!

As we started the trail, the viewpoints really offered view of fall from different angles. Initially the mist was thin so one could see the cascades after cascades of roaring water gushing down with great thrust. By the time we reached the main fall this spindrift made such a thick veil of water that the fall was not visible at all. The last point is appropriately called as danger point. It’s on a narrow pinnacle from where one can have good view of the fall in its entirety. It was so slippery due to continuous splashes that I could not reach it without the help. Uday tried to help me but even then I lost the balance and was going to have another fracture. Timely catch by Uday prevented me from falling flat!

The façade of falls changes according to the volume of water. In dry season the topography of falls is appreciated better with each gorge presenting its form distinctly. And one can reach the base rather easily. It looks like the picture above known as boiling pot!  May be we were unfortunate, even though the season was appropriate according to the brochures water was in so much tremendous volume that the entire view of the falls could not be visualized!

We walked down to Zambezi Bridge that connects both Zambia and Zimbabwe by road and rail. The gorge below is site for water sports, river rafting while the bridge itself is the platform for bungee jumping. We could not be game for both, obviously!

Wild life around the falls is vibrant too. Though we did not see any of big four we saw few Mongooses! Back in the hotel after lunch at Gujrati inn, I was so tired that I immersed myself in tub full of waters (again!) this time soothingly warm!

I feel one has to have his own philosophy of life, if one does not have he has to make it. So I skipped the lecture by fellow member. ‘Manki Baat’ and stretched on the bed to have nice slumber!

After nice dinner it was time to hit the bed as again the next morning we were to catch a flight to Cape Town!

 

 

 

Victoria Falls via Nairobi

The Kenyan government was contemplating increase in the cess on petrol from kShilings 245 to kSh 300. That’s from around $1.89 to $ 2.32. In India we still have petrol at around $1!( Actually we are much better on the world scenario, many third world countries are reeling under economic pressure due to this uncalled for war! One single egomaniac lunatic holding the entire world at ransom for his whims and fancies, not accepted!) Economy of Kenya was at stake so the protests were called for. Entire Kenya was to be road blocked, on the day we were to travel to Nairobi. To avoid the menace Swapnil decided to start very early to avoid the heat. We started in the wee hours and reached Nairobi without any hitch at around 10 A.M. It was a fast feat as roads were deserted.

On the way to Nairobi we took a coffee break at Rift valley view point, which is in the Ghats to Nairobi.

The panoramic view was enthralling. Plains and plains reaching up to horizon colored in various shades of green and brown. In fact it stretches from north to south of Kenya encompassing all her lakes, rivers and national parks. It features dramatic escarpments with breathtaking view points.

Nairobi is like any other big city. It starts with many shack like tenements, gradually merging into cityscape of small to big buildings. Nairobi proper, the capital city is worth its salt. Wide clean roads, esthetically erected office buildings with good number of skyscrapers thrown in between. Architecture of few establishments could pass the muster on the universal scale, easily! Interspersed were Manicured gardens and well mowed lawns. It etched a picture of well planned beautiful capital city.

Our driver zig-zagged us through various areas those housed parliament,

council, senate, judiciary and all the government paraphernalia. British impression on the style of architecture was unmistakable. Many blacks, men women both, may be office workers and/or Government officials suited and booted from top to toes remotely resembled their tribal brethren, really? 

The maze of flyovers and underpasses at Museum hill denoted new, imminent Kenya. It held hope for the coming Kenyan generations in particular and African Blacks in general!

Kenyan national museum was our next stop. Not very big. What stands out is Kenya’s struggle for independence. Not very different from that of India! Every white ruled colony has its own Jallianwala bagh! There was a massacre killing myriad of natives, it’s known as Mau Mau rebellion, in 1956. The story is same as everywhere, wherever the whites ruled. Be it Australia where they exterminated native Maoris, in America red Indians, in Africa all over, no country barred, whether it was British or German or French colony blacks were killed , raped, castrated, beheaded, ostracized and annihilated! Most ruthless and despicable race was and is white; the picture even today is not very different!

In 2013 Britain accepted the blame and responsibility for the atrocities committed by the British officers on Kenyan subjects and compensated the surviving victims to the tune of 20 million pounds. Here I agree with Dr Shashi Thuroor (Dr Shashi Benur agreeing with Dr Shashi Thuroor!). We too must ask Britain to return our stolen treasure including Koh-e-noor!

We had our lunch at an Indian restaurant run by a Punjabi family from West Punjab, now in Pakistan. And since then the sequence of food at Indian Restaurants started. In fact Swapnil was helpless because except Shubha and me every other one preferred it!

Our hotel at Nairobi was from the same chain, Sarova from Nakuru, it was Sarova Stanley Nairobi! Situated at the city centre. It was just fantastic. Exclusively 5 star!! The room allotted to us was a suit, nothing less. It has master bedroom with attached officer/conference room. Two W/Cs one with spacious tub, shining coffee bar and chandelier hung from ceiling at the centre! But it was only for one night, why only for few hours! Due to unstable law and order situation we had decided to check out very early in the morning 4 AM to catch a flight to Victoria Falls Zimbabwe.

We still had few spare hours, on hands in the evening, so decided to have stroll around the block. All the staff as well as the security warned us against the idea. Everybody said it’s extremely dangerous! Due to extreme poverty in certain sections of society mugging is rampant. And the mugger if does not find any cash on your person, does not hesitate to attack with weapon! Wound up the idea and went to the uppermost floor where it has swimming pool, to have a dip! It was heated pool so in that cold climate, temperature around 10* C, it was boon!

Did not have sleep of even 40 winks. Woke up at 2 AM, did away with morning ablutions and we were in the lobby with luggage at 3.30 AM sharp. At those unearthly hours it was unthinkable to have full breakfast so had only coffee and few biscuits. Hotel supplied us with packages of breakfast to eat on the way.

We were at the Nairobi airport at 4.30 AM sharp to catch 7.25 AM flight to Victoria Falls airport Zimbabwe! Once bitten twice shy. I lied on the parapet wall to have short nap, it helped. Flight to Victoria Falls was nothing exceptional except we had surplus of food. They served the breakfast on board as usual and we had food packages from hotel. We landed on

Victoria Falls airport according to schedule. It was international airport as Victoria Falls fetch tourists from all over the world but nothing grandiose, just like any other country airport without any flashy décor. Cozy! It had nice small water fall inside may be representation of the main fall! In Zimbabwe it was visa on arrival. So it was time consuming. Swapnil was struggling (haggling with the officer!) to get the visas for 22 people as early as possible. It done, we were in Luxurious 2 by 2 Volvo like bus to our hotel Elephant Hill resort.

Victoria Falls Township that has developed around the Falls is very small town with very few native households. Of the rest most are small hotels, resorts or tourist activity centers. You hardly see any establishment having more than two storeys. Lush green canopy of trees covering every road it was extremely suitable place to spend retired life!

Elephant hill resort was magnificent in its own way. Not having many floors it was spread over vast area. African Male Dancers were performing at the gate to welcome us. God knows, how they have such a beautiful rhythm in everyone of them. Maharashtrian Marathi especially Man has two left legs, may be because dance is looked down upon in higher echelons of the limited society! Finding the room was task as the hotel building had many offshoots which were no less than a maze. Room was really cozy facing eastwards and it had the view of mist from the falls!

On all the days in Victoria town we had our lunches and dinners at an inn run by a Gujrati lady from Valsad.  Homemade food was very good and the hostess in her 40s may be, very hospitable, smiling all the time and personally looking after the needs of diners.

First evening in Victoria Town is/was the most memorable.

it was cruise on Zambezi River which becomes placid after turbulent encounter at Victoria Falls. It actually forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. So again we crossed the border of Zambia without valid visa!  It is the 4^th largest river in Africa and only one draining in Indian Ocean. Cruise was on two storeyed watercraft equipped with bar and small kitchen. Naturally all of us selected the upper deck.

The view from upper deck was enchanting. The basin of the river is very wide with dense forestation on the banks. There were waters and waters up to horizon absolutely hypnotizing. Drinks and starters were on the house. News was exhilarating! But only at the outset. When one does not want to make show of oneself in public, drinking automatically is restricted. I opted for Mojito with white rum! Then there were endless servings of starters, right from sushi to small pizzas to Indian snacks.

Chicken in various avatars was delicious be it patties, fried or shredded. After getting tipsy a little, I hate to over drink it was absolutely heaven. Ambiance, company, food everything exhilarating. To add to the fun there was this hippo that opened his mouth fully for us to put cherry on the top of our enjoyment! We also shook a leg or two! The time flew with the wings of butterfly slowly, languidly but beautifully.

Sun started setting on the western horizons letting demure dusk to descend on the tranquil waters lifting the spirits with spirits! It was time for adieu. But the evening
etched permanent memories for many times to come.

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