Johannesburg via George

We traversed South Africa from West to East by Garden route / NH no.2. Idea was to catch flight to Johannesburg from George. On the way lunch at Hermanus and night halt at Mossel bay.

As it was National highway, road was very good and passed through picturesque landscapes. The deep, tannin-stained rivers and ancient ferns of the Garden route National Park feature lush, deep-green canopies. The area around Wilderness and Sedgefield is defined by coastal fynbos (indigenous shrub land) and a series of tranquil, sparkling lakes and meandering rivers. It had small Ghats with serpentine lazily ascending roads and Oceans initially Atlantic and then the Indian. .

We had our lunch at Hermanus at a restaurant run by a Nepali. He was so happy to receive us. Food was authentic Hindu and our group members loved it.

Just across the road there are whale

 viewing points. The Walker bay offers scintillating view of ocean. I felt now at least should it be Indian Ocean but alas it again turned out to be Atlantic as we still had not crossed Cape Agulhas which was still further down south.

Albertinia, a small town on the Garden Road is known as Aloe Vera capital of South Africa. We visited Aloe Ferox factory and Nursery on the way which has tallest structure of Aloe Vera in the entire world. Erected in 2010 it’s 9 meters tall and is replica of Aloe Ferox also known as Cape Aloe.

Aloe Ferox nursery and factory are the largest in the area and have thousands of seedlings. It produces various products from Aloe Vera like Aloe powder, jelly, extracts and juices. These are mainly used in cosmetic industries as moisturizers. There is even a wine made from Aloe Vera. Nothing spectacular about it!

Mossel Bay was still far away so we whiled away time by singing Hindi and Marathi songs on the bus. Favorite time pass for any Indian. Another picnic like feeling! It was almost evening by the time we reached Diaz Hotel and resort. At last it was Indian Ocean which could be seen from our room! Incidentally the restaurant at the resort was again ‘Jewel of India’ and was run by the same family of Ajit Kanakia that runs one in Cape Town! Room was cozy and faced Indian Ocean on the East. Alas toilet did not have water jet! Again!

By this date I was so tired, practically exhausted due to continuous running around and lack of proper sleep. I was absolutely deprived of it. So I decided to opt out of next day’s excursion, a visit to Ostrich Farm and Crocodile center. I required sleep more that a look at big eyed flightless birds!

Another reason to opt out was, I had already visited Ostrich Park in America so was not much enthusiastic about it while Crocodile Park back home at Mahabalipuram, rather on the way to Mahabalipuram from Chennai, I had found much more fascinating with hundreds of crocs, or were they more, in all forms, in all ages from eggs to adult ones!

I still remember that firang who stayed in a hut at the center of a pond infested with Crocodiles all around! He was studying them!!!

Shubha brought back the pictures holding Ostrich eggs, which she could not manage with one hand.

Last stretch of the journey was to Johannesburg via George. Air port of George was so cozy that one could have built it in the back yard of his home! It was South African domestic flight so was without any fanfare. Immediately after checking out of O R Tambo Johannesburg air port we directly drove to Nelson Mandela square situated at the center of the town. Whatever Johannesburg we could see passing, from the bus seemed to be ultra modern developed city with metros, wide roads, skyscrapers and designer buildings. It was apparent that it is the richest city of South Africa! City sightseeing tour was not on the agenda, may be Johannesburg does not have attractions for tourists’ interest!

Nelson Mandela square turned out to be a commercial shopping center in Sandton. Though it is dedicated to the father of South African anti-apartheid movement, Nelson Mandela it does not have any historical significance. Like say, it’s not cradle of anti apartheid movement, as it did not start here nor Mr. Mandela had residence in the vicinity, ever, it was far away!

It’s designed absolutely on European style and nothing African about it!

It was named after Mr. Mandela only when his 6 meter tall statue in bronze was commissioned in 2004, his first statue in the entire country! The criticism against naming after Mr. Mandela was fought with, “The Square is optimistic, expressive and confident like Madiba (Affectionate name for Mr. Mandela) jive and represents a sophisticated eclectic cosmopolitan success story!” [From Achieves]!

There is M K Gandhi square also in Johannesburg and open museum of machine/engineering artifacts but we did not visit them for want of time.

Swapnil always had an ace up his sleeves. This time it was ‘Maharaja’ Indian restaurant that was bang in the square! Food for lunch was good but nothing extra ordinary!

Afternoon was for shopping at authentic South African outlet, Cabanos. It was run mostly by whites and was authentic outlet for South African Diamonds. It was full with tourists from all over the world and some of them really bought the diamonds! I won’t dare to buy such expensive items overseas and will stick to my usual jeweler back home. Not that we did not buy anything but they were small trinkets or knick knacks! Nothing expensive!!

Our last stay was at Peermont Metcourt suits, Johannesburg. It was fantastic, 5 star abode with a stupendous mall attached to it! It was out of this world, posh, extravagant, and glistening from every corner with Vegas style casino thrown in. Here too multiplex did not exhibit any Indian flick. In fact South Africa has sizable number of Indian population practically amounting to more than 1% of entire population, so it was surprising. Is it that our Indian film producers have missed the bus? The last Indian restaurant brought memories from back home; it was named ‘Taste of Mumbai’! Yes Mumbai not Bombay!!

Early in the morning we started for the air port which was absolutely next door to Peermont Metcourt suits. It was selected to avoid the early morning rush in the city. The ground hostess cut two boarding passes one for Johannesburg to Nairobi and second was from Nairobi to Mumbai, as the air line carrying was the same!

Lay over at air ports are boring. We were to have of around 5 hours at Nairobi. So it was duty free shopping and few snacks at the restaurant!

Back in Mumbai in the wee hours we were to face yet another hurdle at immigration counter for the first time. Due to outbreak of e-bola virus in some African countries all the passengers returning from African countries were asked to check at specially allotted counters. So there were very long queues. Practically a mile long! So for the first time in life we decided to use our card of being Senior Citizen and handicapped person with rod in Right leg to avail the facility at a special counter. After clearing the emigration practically after 2 to 2.30 hours we met our son Saket, outside who was waiting for us for more than 3 hours!



This is the last installment of the travelogue. Not only did I enjoy the trip but enjoyed the write ups too as it amounted to living the entire trip again. Some episodes fetched views to the tune of more than 15000! Overwhelming! Thank you very much all those who read my blog and appreciated it. It was too much for me!

Though I was skeptical about a conducted tour at the outset, Kesari Tours were really good and they knew what they were executing. Special accolade to our tour operator Swapnil Patankar, though it was hard for me to hear what he was announcing he patiently explained everything to me again in one to one conversation. Last but not the least! The fellow groupers! They were amazing. Helping each other without squabble. I must mention about my friends Uday, Rajani, Jayu and Sheila along with Dillep Saharabuddhe and his beautiful wife Sucheta. New camaraderie was formed along with the older ones strengthened. I don’t know what would be the next but looking forward to it!

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Cape Town 3

Today’s was a long drive with some exciting sights thrown in, it was sojourn of Cape Peninsula!

We were to travel to Hout’s Bay. Around 30 kms down south from Cape Town, it’s considered suburb of Cape Town.  It’s a seaside harbor famous for Seal Island cruises. It has a lovely crescent shaped beach in the bowl of Peninsula Valley made by surrounding mountains. In fact it has many sights of tourists’ interest as it was once a Dutch colony. It’s famous for its quirky market where you can get even fake passport! It’s multiracial township with large number of whites almost on par with African Blacks.

We were to take a cruise to Duiker Island, also known as Seal Island. The boat was huge, double Decker and apart from our group there were many others. Though not overcrowded, (may be, not allowed) it carried quite a large number. Seal island was on the other side of peninsula and boat has to take 180*degree turn. The entire course of journey was spectacular. Blue waters, clear blue skies and the view of beautiful mountains Suther Peak, Chapman’s peak and others as background!

Duiker Island turned out to be a cluster of rocks may be 20 to 30 in number. They were occupied by seals, seals and seals everywhere! May be in hundreds may be more! Most were lazily taking sunbath while few were jumping in the waters for, may be enjoyment may be food. Their shiny skin glistened in the morning sun giving them the appearance of Nouveau riche damsel flaunting her imported waist coat made from shiny leather!

Back to harbor with heavy heart. A red colored boat crossing the blue waters was sight to watch as the colors contrasted giving it a picture post card feel!

The road we took next, Chapman’s highway was like a slick serpent. Lying lazily on the laps of lush green mountains; it zig-zagged through the Mountains, having Atlantic Ocean on one side and steep hills of Chapman’s peak on the other.

Stretches for 9 kms from Hout Bay to Noordhoek beach it was the most scenic coastal highway we travelled so far. It had many view points and we stopped at one to appreciate the Hout bay with the cliff hanging S-Turns and breath taking pull offs that allow you to feel the essence of South Africa. The view of Hout Bay with The Sentinel located at the entrance of harbor on the west was absolutely eye catching.  Dileep Sahasrabuddhe fellow grouper, photographed my various moods at this point when I was not much aware. Even though it might look narcissist I can’t help but to put them here, as they have turned out to be really good! Thanks Dileep!

                                                      

Noordhoek beach was attractive and is home for surfers and as well as causal sea swimmers. It’s a Dutch name meaning “North Corner”! Chapman’s peak can be seen in the north. Sands were silver and waters turquoise blue. Best combination for dip! But could not, due to group compulsions. We had our lunch at the restaurant that was bang on the Noordhoek beach, I forget the name. Food was really good especially sea food, did they serve Shrikhand as a sweet dish I don’t remember but they did have few Indian recipes in the spread!

Traveling along the beach we reached another beach, Boulders beach that has native Penguin population.
South African penguins! They do exist,
I doubted as I always felt Penguins means either Antarctica or Melbourne in Australia; famous for their parade! As compared to Emperor Penguins from Antarctica, (had seen them in Singapore) this species was though smaller had the same grace and cuteness. They have other differences too but I am not here to write a paper on ‘Comparative study of Emperor Penguins and Jack Ass Penguins (as they are also known as)!’ Their waddle with funny movements of their flaps was equally cute. Another feature is the stench! All pervasive and repulsive! Unfortunately due to variety of environmental and other factors their number is dwindling, so efforts are being made to prevent them from extinction.

The Cape Peninsula stretches down still further for many miles, till it reaches Cape of Good Hope. On the way to it there was this ostrich, walking mid-road oblivious of the cars all around it. It reminded of the lasses walking on romp of the Fashion shows, it was that undulating and inviting (!!!)!

Cape of Good Hope! A common misconception is that the Cape of Good Hope is the southernmost tip of South Africa. The fact is, it actually is Cape Agulhas about 90 kms south-east of Cape of Good Hope. It is where the Atlantic and Indian Ocean meet or are supposed to meet. It also is arbitrary like the borders between African nations. I was under impression rather a foolish one that if you own a house in Cape Town, your east side window opens on the Indian Ocean and west side on the Atlantic. In fact Cape Town is totally on the Atlantic Ocean on the west coast of Africa and Indian Ocean is whopping 1000 or more kilometers away on the eastern side! And there is nothing like peninsula at the tip, southern coast of Africa is practically a straight line, stretching up to more than 2000 kms!

Nonetheless Cape of Good Hope has its historical importance as it served the milestone for ships travelling from Europe to India. On the hillock, there is age old Light house and you can reach it by using a funicular. Remnants of ramparts and watching towers are still intact at some places.

Swapnil always searched for different Indian restaurants for our meals. This time it was ‘Tava’ for dinner (I am not going to add ‘H’ as is always done by South Indians) in grandiose mall of Cape Town, Grand Casino and Entertainment World! It really was grandiose and had big casino to add to the merrymaking. Alas multiplex here too did not exhibit any Bollywood flick! Food was Indian so no experimenting but it was really good so I probably overate!

The tour was in its penultimate phase and now we were to fly back home from Johannesburg via Nairobi. But wait, we were going to traverse the entire South Africa by road from West to East coast a distance of around 400 kms. ; At the shortest points and were going to have one night stop (not stand! Strictly tongue in cheek!); in Diaz hotel at Mossel bay.