Santorini 2

 

Santorini 2

The slopes of Fira were so close by the Villa Manos that whenever we got chance we walked down; sorry it was uphill, to Fira. Those ‘Tinopal’ white houses with their Blue roofs, and Blue doors, Churches with Blue domes, serpentine cobbled lanes, and cozy little hotels serving authentic Greek cuisine were so endearing that there must be hardly any soul that would not fall in love with Santorini and I am not ashamed to declare myself ‘Die Hard’ romantic.

You can climb the entire cliff down to the harbor by tortuous road. We had to give up the try as entire passage was filled with Mule shit, and due to its offensive stench could not take even few steps without pinching the nose. You can hire the Mule ride but even by European standards it was too expensive. Mule owner was asking for Four Euros to go down and same amount to come back. Cable car was half as expensive but it was closed on the day, unfortunately. Efforts to bargain went futile because Mule owner had training by Tongawalas from Pune. Like a member of union he refused to budge even by a centime. He was trying to encash the closure of the cable car to his benefit. In the end all the pliers are same all over the world, so dropped the idea and decided to execute plan B.

Santorini is famous for her beaches. Kamari beach is very near to Fira. Entire east coast of Santorini is nothing but beaches. Kamari is practically at the center of the island and is known as ‘Black’ beach. They are named according to the color of sand, so there are White and Red beaches too. We have Bay of Bengal but we don’t take it as a part of Indian Ocean, similarly though Mediterranean Sea surrounds all the islands of Greece, locals have their own names for their part of sea. So in Santorini it is known as South Aegean Sea.

Kamari beach does not bring down the reputation of Santorini for her beauty but the sand is coarse and is totally black like that at Alibag or Boradi. So that sense of cleanliness just evades you. But as anywhere else waters are crystal clear, Cobalt blue in color and devoid of any floating debris. Tried to have few dips but it was so cold that ‘Oldie’ in me nagged me, not to venture. Of course I did not listen to that ‘Inner’ voice in entirety and did have few dips in the skimpiest swimming briefs. Shubha did not try even and chose to be perched on the strands. Entire beach was devoid of any soul apart from us two; we felt as if we owned the beach like King of Greece. This type of Godly solitude you just cannot even think to have in India.

There are few relics nearby. Also a small church on the hillock nearby. Leisurely we walked up the church but nothing spectacular about the church but the sea? Was more than amazing!

The houses on the slopes of Fira shine in the evening, so again like a teenager fallen 

in love for the first time we took our feet to Johnny Walker point.

It’s the point from where the beauty of Fira in her dusky setting can be enjoyed with full heart. Emblem of Johnny Walker whiskey in solid metal is erected here so we named it as ‘Johnny Walker’ point. May not be its true name. While devouring slowly descending dusk on Santorini with open heart I heard someone saying from behind,

‘Isn’t it beautiful?’

What answer could be for such question other than,

‘Of course!’

A sophisticated lady leaning on the wrong side of sixties but refusing to call it quits by adopting every means to stay young was trying to capture the golden hue of setting Sun reflected by the ultra marine waters of the lagoon.

‘So right!’ Another voice but younger seconded her. She was youngish lass late in her twenties. Both turned out to be nurses by profession so the wavelengths matched immediately. Elder one was from Canada. Younger one was Romanian but was working in Australia. All of us spoke chaste English that was legible so the chatter became unending. It was a rare happening in days together so we talked incessantly.

Lisa had conquered Cancer almost a year ago so she had given ultimatum to both of her daughters that,

‘Now onward you and families, manage on your own, not to bother me with any of your problems. Hence forth I am going to live for myself.’

And thus she was away from the home for more than two months. May be she was trying to run away from herself, because at one of weaker  junctures she could not hide her longings to meet her grandchildren! Australian Martha though hailed from Romania but as she was brought up in UK, could manage absolutely pristine English! She too might be trying to run away from the reality because I sensed few hints in her utterances too!  

Humans and their emotions are same all over the globe; we tag them according to what suits us!

Such a pleasant discussion amongst four of us was disturbed by an American, probably he knew Lisa. When we introduced ourselves as Indians, he reflexisively said,

‘Oh India and Pakistan!’

I lost my cool. Why India is always paired with Pakistan? Anybody and everybody who is born after the independence has nothing to do with Pakistan. As far as my memory goes that nation had been only nuisance and had troubled India always. So I never understand the propriety of this pairing. Our own politicians from north too do not lag behind. For next 30 minutes I lectured him with full gusto, at times raising the voice on,

 ‘How We Indians are different than and superior to Pakistan?!’

Also made my displeasure obvious for labeling everybody from the subcontinent as ‘Pakies’! And did not stop at that. In the flow of discourse showed him,

‘How even the President of US of A has double standards.’

He heard me without uttering a word, very politely, poor soul what else he could have done! My explosion was neither going to affect Rhino skinned Politicians in New Delhi nor it was going to bring down the White-house. It just boiled down to,

‘How a common Indian vents out the ire towards duplicity of America to another common American!’  Why, I don’t know but I felt at peace with myself thereafter!

‘Forget it. Let’s enjoy the Sunset collectively’ Martha suggested in somber tone.

What better suggestion would have been than this!

The royal Opera presented its second performance for us and we left for Villa Manos with heavy hearts!