Korean adventure: 3

 

Seoul Day 2: N-Tower and Cheong-gye-cheon :Urban river.

There are 10.6 million Kim s, also pronounced as Gim, in Korea amounting practically to 22% of population. Out of so many at least few have to be cranky, this time it turned out to be one Kim from North Korea. He fired some ballistic missiles against Japan but they fell in South Korean sea. Naturally South Korean army went on alert and cancelled all the tourist activities near border. Unfortunately I was booked on one of such tours, Visit to Demilitarized Zone between North and South Korea, DMZ in short.

The outcome had various possibilities and mixed feelings. Bad, because I missed the opportunity and was told to reorganize the dates or cancel. As my entire program of Korea was tightly scheduled it was not possible to re-date. So it was as good as canceled.

I was very angry at my tour designer for cancelling the tour. But on inquiring with the local tour operator it turned out that its Army’s order and no tour operator can do anything about it. I too could not do anything apart from saying, “Hey Ram!”

On the happier note, I was to get two more days in Seoul to roam on my own because the other, Day Tour to Nami Island with Gangwon-do which was coupled with the first one was also canceled !

On lighter side I came across a reel by Mykoreandic on ‘YouTube’, it showed how South Koreans look at such pranks by North Korea.

A South Korean is asked,

“North Korea has fired missiles which fell in your sea, how are you going to retaliate?’

South Korean answers,

“We too would launch missiles which will fall in their seas!”

As the rush to catch the tour at 5.30 AM was no more I got up little late. Today’s breakfast had some greens named ‘Kale’. I had heard the name of vegetable but never eaten before. It was nothing but raw fiber. Suppose, you don’t clean the spinach and cook everything, with stems and all, how would it taste? It tasted exactly same. Fibers and more fibers. For the same reason I don’t like bean sprouts and bamboo shoots. Nothing but Xylem and Phloem for those who have learnt botany!

To reach N Tower, also known as Namsan tower or Seoul tower, the route by subway was very tedious. From Sinnonhyeon to Dongjak, after changing the line, get down at Myeong dong and walk for few minutes to catch a cable car to tower. I don’t know why I did not do it at that moment but felt like seeing Seoul passing by so I took Taxi to the base of Namsan Mountain. Namsan Mountains are Guardian Mountains of Seoul on the northern side. Atop is Seoul or Namsan tower which offers panoramic view of Seoul.

Though I was aware of availability of cable car, Taxi man dropped me at the base of steps which take you to the tower like a trail. I tried to converse with him about it but as usual we drew a blank. I was happy to take taxi as I could really see real Seoul which normally you miss while travelling by underground subway, though you reach faster. While reaching the N tower we crossed Han River on the way. It’s an example to cities with rivers, ‘How to beautify the river banks?’ Long stretches of lawns, parks, cycle tracks by the side of river with jetties for river cruise. Unfortunately for want of time I could not take one.

I may be, had to take the trail due to lack of conversation with taxi man, but it turned out to be both, bane and boon at the same time. It went at times through deep forestation and as it was season of fall, the colors of trees which we normally don’t see in this part of India were exhibited in full glory. Yellow, orange red mixed with still ashamed to change, green!

The plethora of colors was really wonderful for the eyes to see. That never before show made my taking the trail worth the efforts. It at times was accompanied by the relics of old ramparts those protected Seoul in past from invaders.

On the negative side my body told me, ‘You are young at heart only, whatever you may say but I am seventy years old, well almost!’ I used to lose breath every few tens of steps and had to rest before continuing. I really don’t know what I am made of, but never did I feel like giving up ever,so went on climbing the steps, nonchalantly. I must have taken much more time than the usual but I made to the tower in one piece! It not only tested my stamina, strength, endurance but above all perseverance. And I must say I proved it to myself on my first solo trip!

The plateau on which it stands with full, tongue strictly in cheek, erection has a ground looking like skating rink with Buddhist style canopy in the corner.

Few food stalls and kiosks selling little-big souvenirs. Replica of any American hoopla at any American attraction! There are fences which are full with locks, typical western culture having the same connotation. It shows South Korea’s inclination towards West, unabashedly!

The technical details are available on net very easily so I am not going to state that it is 776 feet high and was built in 1969 as communication tower, opened to the public way later in 1980. [Oops I did it, please pardon me!] There are two decks open for the public. The lower deck has a photo studio, a compulsory ritual at such tourists’ spots, [I too fell for the bait is another matter] and a chamber with psychedelic lighting while the upper deck has observatory offering 360* view of Seoul.

I always loved such views so it was sheer ecstasy for me. Seoul with its umpteen numbers of skyscrapers and River Han dividing it in to North and South. 

Journey to the base was much easier because I took cable car ride. In short I made fool of myself by climbing up the steps and coming down by cable car, exactly the reverse which in normal course is expected!

The road from cable car station practically ends at Myeongdong subway station from where the largest and most famous market of Seoul, Namdaemun starts within a walkable distance. I don’t like crowds, nor did I want to shop for anything so I just had a cursory round but I ate something delicious and totally Korean at one of the Korean street food stalls, there. Dou Sha Bao. It’s a bun with outer covering of gooey, glutinous rice and the stuffing of Red bean paste. It’s either steamed or fried. I had the steamed one. It tasted like chewy ‘Ukadiche Modak with Puran inside instead of usual Coconut stuffing.’ Indians like their rice cooked with every grain separate, like Basmati Biryani, while Koreans and Japanese use rice which is extra sticky[glutinous] after cooking, which then is pounded in to chewy rice dough. That’s the base for their many recipes, TTeok-bokki, Dango, Kimbap, Sushi, Sashimi and so many others. I had one of them, Rice bun with Red bean paste!

The next stop was Cheong-gye-cheon : Urban river.

In fact it was sewage water disposal brook that flew through the center of the most commercial sector of the city. From Myeondong changing lines twice, first at Dongdaemun and then at Sinseoldong, I got down at Jonggak station. I walked a few meters down and saw a rivulet. My first impression of it was absolutely negative. It turned out that it was not the main stream but tributary. After walking along the tributary, which too had well built banks on either side with tracks for cycles and jogging, I came at the confluence where I got faint picture of what was in the store. Bio-ecological transformation of the sewage stream was so perfect that I saw many birds frolicking along, Ducks in groups along with few egrets and herons. Transformation is so complete that now it has become rendezvous for the young Korean couples to meet.

A passing remark. I did not stay with any Korean family and whatever Koreans I interacted with were total strangers so I really don’t have right to pass a profound comment. Still!

It seems that Korea is a land of young couples, beautiful at that. You see them everywhere, hand in hand making PDA very obvious! May be due to competitive society everybody tries to remain fit and keeps oneself suave. Neatly dressed men with equally smartly attired women you come across at every and any corner of Seoul, so much so that most might be good model material. Men with sparse facial hair making their complexion ultra smooth and silky, straight sharp noses[ Don’t look at mine to compare!] and faintly done make-up [Sale of Cosmetics for Men is highest in Korea] and surprisingly with good round eyes [? Plastic surgery. Most popular/common is widening of the eyes and nose job] sometimes beat their counterparts, women, squarely! Women too are equally dolled up[Literally], in the end, every other one looking like Korean Barbie doll!             

Back to the stream. It’s lined by malls and commercial establishments on either side giving it Nouveau Rich look!There are small waterfalls and cesspools in the stream where Seoulites come to relax in the evening. On special occasions it is decorated with lanterns and is illuminated with flood lights in different colors. A story of "Village belle turning in to city lass!"

It was time for back to pavilion. Minor hitch, the usual one. To find the nearest subway station to ride back. I got 17 different advises but in the end a road sign helped me out. Confusion arose because of the similar sounding names of the stations. One was Sangwangsimni and the other was Wangsimni , ‘Sang’ taking exit for the good, may be like ‘Khurd’ and ‘Budruk’ in Maharashtra, meaning Proper and smaller!  On the way I passed through Gwangjang Market but by that time, curiosity had taken the toll, so I did not venture in!  

Second day turned out to be blessing in disguise due to cancellation of day tour to DMZ. I made most of it!