Hiroshima
Hotel breakfast had
Miso soup. It’s made from fermented red bean paste and is vehicle for many soup
recipes. I had mixed experience about it. At places it was earthy, almost
tasting like raw mud, at others it was sour due to excessive fermentation, but
the soup at Toyoko inn was just perfect with floating pieces of Steak in it.
Rest of the spread was mixed, International Corn flakes with bread, and local
Japanese, ham salamis with local vegetables.
While stepping on the
board of H.O.H.O. bus the mind was absolutely clear, like the weather, devoid
of any thoughts about holocaust. Traversing through Hiroshima now, one really
wonders whether this is the same city that was a heap of rubble just a few
decades ago. Ultra modern skyscrapers, artistically built establishments with
upper crust malls, wide roads with spacious foot-paths on either side, tactile
yellow pavements for blinds everywhere, tracks reserved for cyclists, flower
beds on the road sides every few meters, you think of it and every citizen friendly
facility was there.
I took my first halt
at Hiroshima castle. Built in typical Japanese architectural style but it is
not the original old castle. It’s replica of erstwhile castle built in late 16th
century. It did not survive the holocaust of 1945 and was brought down to a
pile of rubbish. We must appreciate the efforts of Japanese [Germans also
qualify, they too have restored many churches in their pre-war grandeur] to
rebuild it in 1958 exactly like it was before.
It was never imperial
residence but was used by feudal lord of Hiroshima. River Otagawa is on
the west while a moat of water surrounds it on all the other sides. Of the dense
forestation, only three trees have survived the bomb.
Any mention of
Hiroshima is not complete without bomb!
For senior citizens
entrance fee was much less and for once I did not cringe while paying. Now a Grandiose structure, it houses museum of castle’s history along with tit
bits about Japan’s army and its feudalism. Though the original castle was built
with wood and pine, renovated structure is built with reinforced concrete. It’s
five storied white and black structure with triangular arches on every floor
adorning the roofs. It gives castle its unique Japanese aura! I climbed up the three stories but for want of lift I had to give up on the remaining two!
I noticed a small
family celebration on the lawns of the castle. On getting to know that it was
baby shower I congratulated husband and wife. Accepting my greetings they both smiled back heartily and allowed me to photograph them!
Next stop was ‘Atomic
Bomb Dome.’
Atomic Dome was not
visible from the stop where I got down. One has to walk down a small road
through a beautifully manicured garden with water fountains to visit it. Amidst
the well maintained gardens, beautiful Motoyasu River with its nicely paved banks,
ornamental Motoyasu bridge and the melee of skyscrapers and artistically
designed buildings in hundreds, dilapidated Atomic Bomb Dome stands out like a
sore thumb! It’s the only building otherwise that wouldn’t fit in that neat neighborhood.
At that very moment, when I saw the dome for the first time, I felt, is it kept,
as it is for the reminder of the holocaust or as an exhibit, Japan wants to
show to the world to seek sympathy for her sufferings? May be like tourist
attraction? Had not I come with the same purpose?
May be I had done
more than expected homework so the show on Japan’s part jarred, at least to me!
Whatever, Japan was
equally responsible for her hardships which she herself had asked for!
When we talk of WW II,
we always talk of Germany and Hitler, but we never realize that the Emperor of
Japan, Hirohito and his army too was equally ambitious and under the guise of ‘Greater
Asia’, they too had encroached upon many countries of Asia along with parts of
China and Mongolia He had already made
Korea his colony. [P.S.: It is also said that he was the puppet in the hands of
Japan’s army.] Philippines then were under the reign of US of A and Indo-China
under French and Dutch. He had already conquered Indo-China along with Vietnam between
1937 to 1940 and his plans were to capture Philippines from US of A. To divert
the attention of America he attacked Pearl Harbor though it back fired in the
long run Japanese army was successful in invading Philippines in 1941, within the hours of Pearl Harbor attack! The capture of Philippines was complete in April
1942. America tried to fight with Japan on the islands of Okinawa, though she won
the battle, lost more than 12000 American soldiers. She lost another 10000 in
infamous Bataan Death march. The loss of American soldiers contributed hugely
to the decision to bomb Hiroshima.
Japan, America then
realized was a tough cookie to break. Common Japanese man on the street and the Japanese
army under Hirohito was ready to go to any length to win the war. Some label it
is as brain washing of the army and the common Japanese citizen, to treat Hirohito
as God and to disobey him was akin to disobeying the God, making you Anti
Japan. But Japan was always proud about her Samurai heritage and even today
when the Emperor is for the namesake, common Japanese still takes his job, any
job on do or die level, it’s in his blood!
When peace memorandum
sent by America under the leadership of Mr.Truman, President Roosevelt had died by
then, was rejected by Japan, America decided to use atomic bomb to rein in
Japan. Thus the first bomb was dropped on Hiroshima on 6th August
1945 at 8.15 AM. The name of the first atom bomb that killed thousands, was ‘Little
Boy’, how mean America could be?
In spite of death of
more than lacs of her civilian citizens, Japan under Emperor Hirohito and his
army still refused to surrender. So America dropped the second bomb ‘Fat Man’
on Nagasaki 3 days later.
Intriguing facts, how
ridiculous would they be, came to light much later. In high level meeting of
Japanese Army personnel and the Emperor Hirohito it was decided to surrender
but that’s because the emperor used the veto himself. The vote otherwise was
equally divided, 3 each, for continuing the war or to surrender! America too could
save the face by this decision because she just DID NOT have the third bomb to
drop! [From many sources].
With this homework it
was difficult for me to side with Japan completely.
I met in utero
survivor Mito Kosei [he was unborn when the holocaust occurred], who has made
‘Anti Nuclear Weapons’ his crusade for the life. It seemed that he was too busy
[to be a celebrity] so exchanged only few pleasantries and said goodbye.
The rest of the
monument is on the island or is it delta of main River Ota. After crossing the Motoyasu
Bridge there are two monuments, one to pay the homage to the victims of Holocaust,
not less than one lac forty thousand, known as Cenotaph and the other one is
Children’s Peace memorial dedicated to Sadako Sasaki and other children who did
not see the light of the day after holocaust.
Sadako Sasaki did not die immediately but years later, due to severe radiation induced malignancy. She was two years old at the time of bombing but survived for ten years there after suffering from blood abnormalities in her later years. She made thousand origami paper cranes in the hope that she would survive. It’s said about her that though she knew the outcome she was cheerful till last and tried to make everybody around her happy by her happy go lucky nature.The memorial is spartan and does evoke compassion on seeing the figurines on it, praying for the peace.Thus Sadako Sasaki became a name to reckon with on the peace scenario. It’s used to invoke peace, as latest as in Ukraine war!
The Cenotaph nearby
too is sans any decorations and it is just an arch in a different form. It’s
accompanied by ‘Eternal Flame’. Many ’Tourists’ were trying to capture Atomic
Bomb Dome through the Cenotaph for the effect of photographic ‘Composition’!
The Hiroshima Peace
Memorial Museum. And I will say there won’t be a single soul who won’t come out
with a heavy heart after visiting it.
It unfolds the
sufferings of Hiroshima residents in such a graphic manner; I got goose pimples
on the skin and a thin layer of tears at the corners of eyes. It tells the sordid
tale of umpteen numbers of families who lost their near and dear ones in
fraction of a second, for no fault of theirs!
It recreates the
scene of bombing using electronic media model in such a realistic fashion that
you feel as if you were there when it happened.
The temperature
created by the bomb blast was around 4000 degrees Centigrade, at that temperature many
bodies just evaporated leaving not even the ash! The effect of the heat was so profound
that it changed the surfaces of steps, walls and other concrete structures
leaving the imprints of people who were nearby! All the metallic things melted!
One really shudders when he sees the uniform of school children in shambled
tethers. The photographs showing the heaps of dead human bodies maybe
understandable at one point [Because their suffering ended with it], but those
who survived………dismembered, squatting on the footpaths longing for a sip of
water, lying down on the pavements with various degrees of burns, writhing in
pain, it then becomes the most heinous crime, committed against the humanity by
a nation proclaiming herself to be the most democratic!
Here I felt really
sorry for Japan. She had attacked America’s naval bases at Pearl Harbor, which
is a done thing in war but to drop bombs on cities where 95% were civilians? That’s
most barbaric. Not only that, even after realizing the devastation in Hiroshima,
America nonchalantly went ahead and not only dropped the bomb on Nagasaki but developed
Hydrogen Bomb! Years later too, the president Truman who signed the order, did
not repent and went on justifying his action till last! Post war, America
helped Japan not out of guilt [They were in fact crocodile tears] but to
prevent communist invasion by USSR from the North!
Today’s Japan is far
from her Imperial past, while America proved to be number one bully in Vietnam,
Iraq, and Iran and many other places where she did not have any business to be
in the first place!
I do not know who was correct or who was wrong
in WW II but Japan suffered and suffered the most, while Americans went on
enjoying their ‘American Dream’ in plush air conditioned apartments!
More you think about
it more sadder you feel. I am of strong opinion that Human beings don’t learn a
damn from the history, one may commit the same mistake again even on the
personal level, so world peace…… it’s a business, complete hoax!
I tried to sit
through few documentaries but could not! It was overdose of saddest part of the mankind’s history.
Rest of the halts on
the H.O.H.O bus were not of much attraction to me as they were only museums.
To ride the bus again
only for famous pancake of Hiroshima, Okonomiyaki, I felt was waste of time as
I am not as much of a foodie!
I had decided to
visit Miyajima an island offshore in Hiroshima Bay in the early morning of the
last day. I had to advance it, as there was no direct Hikari Shinkansen from
Hiroshima to Tokyo. It was to be Sanyo from Hiroshima to Shin Osaka and then Shin
Osaka to Tokyo by Hikari. Changing of train at Shin Osaka was going to be time
consuming so I had to drop the idea of morning visit to Miyajima.
There was power boat
service from the jetty on Motoyasu River, taking directly to Miyajima. I
boarded it at Y 2200 rather steep fare but it allowed me to fit Miyajima in my
schedule.
It caught the speed
not less than any boat in James Bond movie. The front nozzle was almost in
the air. Miyajima has many attractions worth a visit, Itsukushima Jinja Otorii or
a floating Torii top the list. It also is abode to shrine of Kiyomori
shrine. Plus Mt. Misen.
Being a tourist
attraction it also has ‘N’ number of food stalls and shops of souvenirs. Walk
of about 10-15 minutes along the boulevard takes you to Grand Floating Torii.
It really looks majestic during the high tide, looking really like floating on
the water. In low tide you can walk up to the structure. Built on pillars on
the sea bed the shrine of Kiyomori too practically looks like floating on water during high
tide. The water almost wets the floors of two major shrines Honsha and Seesha.
Both are open from all the sides giving them a feel of windy verandas. On the
platforms adjacent to it, Kabuki performances are held as special events.
Another attraction
for the Firangs is stray Deer [or are they owned], many many in number roaming
all over the streets of island seeking food. They are so domesticated that they don’t mind a cuddle by anyone who offers them food. Souvenir shops were really bargain so I ended
up buying few Tees for girls in my home and for little brat, Arsh, my grandson,
a cute Kimono!
My calculations for
the time went little haywire and I could not catch gondola on the rope-way to
Mt. Misen. They close their operations at 4 PM and it was already 3.45 PM. I
would have loved the panoramic view of Hiroshima from the top but……. You gain
something…you miss something!
Contrary to common
belief that Japanese might be loving savory more, due to their indulgence in
meat recipes, they have quite a sweet tooth! Shops serving sweets in Miyajima
outnumber the restaurants serving savory! Momiji Manju, what a unique name for
a sweet, is very popular. I tried to ask for ingredients, but drew a blank for
lack of communication. Of course I loved it because I too have a sweet tooth!
Ferry back home was
free for JR pass holders; it was Ro-Ro boat with lower deck for vehicles. Tram
terminus, Miyajamaguchi taking you back to Hiroshima railway station is just
opposite the ferry wharf. Tram is called street-car in Hiroshima reminding one,
of the famous play by Tennessee Williams and movie by the same name ‘Street Car
named Desire’. Elizabeth Taylor had won the Oscar for her role in it.
The travel in the
street car was very friendly, maybe routine travelers knew conductor by his
name. He too was a jolly good fellow helping everybody in their chores, like personally
pushing the wheel chair of grandfather to get him on the board and also to alight
or holding the bags for a young mother with a kid! I traversed practically
entire Hiroshima in just Y 230. Quite cheap by the Japanese standards!
Leaving Hiroshima
left mixed feelings but mostly sad. Remorse for the dead still lingered!
