Hiroshima

 

Hiroshima

Hotel breakfast had Miso soup. It’s made from fermented red bean paste and is vehicle for many soup recipes. I had mixed experience about it. At places it was earthy, almost tasting like raw mud, at others it was sour due to excessive fermentation, but the soup at Toyoko inn was just perfect with floating pieces of Steak in it. Rest of the spread was mixed, International Corn flakes with bread, and local Japanese, ham salamis with local vegetables.

While stepping on the board of H.O.H.O. bus the mind was absolutely clear, like the weather, devoid of any thoughts about holocaust. Traversing through Hiroshima now, one really wonders whether this is the same city that was a heap of rubble just a few decades ago. Ultra modern skyscrapers, artistically built establishments with upper crust malls, wide roads with spacious foot-paths on either side, tactile yellow pavements for blinds everywhere, tracks reserved for cyclists, flower beds on the road sides every few meters, you think of it and every citizen friendly facility was there.

I took my first halt at Hiroshima castle. Built in typical Japanese architectural style but it is not the original  old castle. It’s  replica of erstwhile castle built in late 16^th century. It did not survive the holocaust of 1945 and was brought down to a pile of rubbish. We must appreciate the efforts of Japanese [Germans also qualify, they too have restored many churches in their pre-war grandeur] to rebuild it in 1958 exactly like it was before.

It was never imperial residence but was used by feudal lord of Hiroshima. River Otagawa is on the west while a moat of water surrounds it on all the other sides. Of the dense forestation, only three trees have survived the bomb.

Any mention of Hiroshima is not complete without bomb!

For senior citizens entrance fee was much less and for once I did not cringe while paying. Now a Grandiose structure, it houses museum of castle’s history along with tit bits about Japan’s army and its feudalism. Though the original castle was built with wood and pine, renovated structure is built with reinforced concrete. It’s five storied white and black structure with triangular arches on every floor adorning the roofs. It gives castle its unique Japanese aura! I climbed up the three stories but for want of lift I had to give up on the remaining two!

I noticed a small family celebration on the lawns of the castle. On getting to know that it was baby shower I congratulated husband and wife. Accepting my greetings they both smiled back heartily and allowed me to photograph them!

Next stop was ‘Atomic Bomb Dome.’

Atomic Dome was not visible from the stop where I got down. One has to walk down a small road through a beautifully manicured garden with water fountains to visit it. Amidst the well maintained gardens, beautiful Motoyasu River with its nicely paved banks, ornamental Motoyasu bridge  and the melee of skyscrapers and artistically designed buildings in hundreds, dilapidated Atomic Bomb Dome stands out like a sore thumb! It’s the only building otherwise that wouldn’t fit in that neat neighborhood. At that very moment, when I saw the dome for the first time, I felt, is it kept, as it is for the reminder of the holocaust or as an exhibit, Japan wants to show to the world to seek sympathy for her sufferings? May be like tourist attraction? Had not I  come with the same purpose?

May be I had done more than expected homework so the show on Japan’s part jarred, at least to me!

Whatever, Japan was equally responsible for her hardships which she herself had asked for!

When we talk of WW II, we always talk of Germany and Hitler, but we never realize that the Emperor of Japan, Hirohito and his army too was equally ambitious and under the guise of ‘Greater Asia’, they too had encroached upon many countries of Asia along with parts of China and Mongolia  He had already made Korea his colony. [P.S.: It is also said that he was the puppet in the hands of Japan’s army.] Philippines then were under the reign of US of A and Indo-China under French and Dutch. He had already conquered Indo-China along with Vietnam between 1937 to 1940 and his plans were to capture Philippines from US of A. To divert the attention of America he attacked Pearl Harbor though it back fired in the long run Japanese army was successful in invading Philippines in 1941, within the hours of Pearl Harbor attack! The capture of Philippines was complete in April 1942. America tried to fight with Japan on the islands of Okinawa, though she won the battle, lost more than 12000 American soldiers. She lost another 10000 in infamous Bataan Death march. The loss of American soldiers contributed hugely to the decision to bomb Hiroshima.

Japan, America then realized was a tough cookie to break. Common Japanese man on the street and the Japanese army under Hirohito was ready to go to any length to win the war. Some label it is as brain washing of the army and the common Japanese citizen, to treat Hirohito as God and to disobey him was akin to disobeying the God, making you Anti Japan. But Japan was always proud about her Samurai heritage and even today when the Emperor is for the namesake, common Japanese still takes his job, any job on do or die level, it’s in his blood!    

When peace memorandum sent by America under the leadership of Mr.Truman, President Roosevelt had died by then, was rejected by Japan, America decided to use atomic bomb to rein in Japan. Thus the first bomb was dropped on Hiroshima on 6^th August 1945 at 8.15 AM. The name of the first atom bomb that killed thousands, was ‘Little Boy’, how mean America could be?

In spite of death of more than lacs of her civilian citizens, Japan under Emperor Hirohito and his army still refused to surrender. So America dropped the second bomb ‘Fat Man’ on Nagasaki 3 days later.

Intriguing facts, how ridiculous would they be, came to light much later. In high level meeting of Japanese Army personnel and the Emperor Hirohito it was decided to surrender but that’s because the emperor used the veto himself. The vote otherwise was equally divided, 3 each, for continuing the war or to surrender! America too could save the face by this decision because she just DID NOT have the third bomb to drop! [From many sources].

With this homework it was difficult for me to side with Japan completely.

I met in utero survivor Mito Kosei [he was unborn when the holocaust occurred], who has made ‘Anti Nuclear Weapons’ his crusade for the life. It seemed that he was too busy [to be a celebrity] so exchanged only few pleasantries and said goodbye.

The rest of the monument is on the island or is it delta of main River Ota. After crossing the Motoyasu Bridge there are two monuments, one to pay the homage to the victims of Holocaust, not less than one lac forty thousand, known as Cenotaph and the other one is Children’s Peace memorial dedicated to Sadako Sasaki and other children who did not see the light of the day after holocaust.

Sadako Sasaki did not die immediately but years later, due to severe radiation induced malignancy. She was two years old at the time of bombing but survived for ten years there after suffering from blood abnormalities in her later years. She made thousand origami paper cranes in the hope that she would survive. It’s said about her that though she knew the outcome she was cheerful till last and tried to make everybody around her happy  by her happy go lucky nature.The memorial is spartan and does evoke compassion on seeing the figurines on it, praying for the peace.Thus Sadako Sasaki became a name to reckon with on the peace scenario. It’s used to invoke peace, as latest as in Ukraine war!

The Cenotaph nearby too is sans any decorations and it is just an arch in a different form. It’s accompanied by ‘Eternal Flame’. Many ’Tourists’ were trying to capture Atomic Bomb Dome through the Cenotaph for the effect of photographic ‘Composition’!

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. And I will say there won’t be a single soul who won’t come out with a heavy heart after visiting it.

It unfolds the sufferings of Hiroshima residents in such a graphic manner; I got goose pimples on the skin and a thin layer of tears at the corners of eyes. It tells the sordid tale of umpteen numbers of families who lost their near and dear ones in fraction of a second, for no fault of theirs!

It recreates the scene of bombing using electronic media model in such a realistic fashion that you feel as if you were there when it happened.

The temperature created by the bomb blast was around 4000 degrees Centigrade, at that temperature many bodies just evaporated leaving not even the ash! The effect of the heat was so profound that it changed the surfaces of steps, walls and other concrete structures leaving the imprints of people who were nearby! All the metallic things melted! One really shudders when he sees the uniform of school children in shambled tethers. The photographs showing the heaps of dead human bodies maybe understandable at one point [Because their suffering ended with it], but those who survived………dismembered, squatting on the footpaths longing for a sip of water, lying down on the pavements with various degrees of burns, writhing in pain, it then becomes the most heinous crime, committed against the humanity by a nation proclaiming herself to be the most democratic! 

Here I felt really sorry for Japan. She had attacked America’s naval bases at Pearl Harbor, which is a done thing in war but to drop bombs on cities where 95% were civilians? That’s most barbaric. Not only that, even after realizing the devastation in Hiroshima, America nonchalantly went ahead and not only dropped the bomb on Nagasaki but developed Hydrogen Bomb! Years later too, the president Truman who signed the order, did not repent and went on justifying his action till last! Post war, America helped Japan not out of guilt [They were in fact crocodile tears] but to prevent communist invasion by USSR from the North!

Today’s Japan is far from her Imperial past, while America proved to be number one bully in Vietnam, Iraq, and Iran and many other places where she did not have any business to be in the first place!

 I do not know who was correct or who was wrong in WW II but Japan suffered and suffered the most, while Americans went on enjoying their ‘American Dream’ in plush air conditioned apartments!

More you think about it more sadder you feel. I am of strong opinion that Human beings don’t learn a damn from the history, one may commit the same mistake again even on the personal level, so world peace…… it’s a business, complete hoax!

I tried to sit through few documentaries but could not! It was overdose of saddest part of the mankind’s history.

Rest of the halts on the H.O.H.O bus were not of much attraction to me as they were only museums.

To ride the bus again only for famous pancake of Hiroshima, Okonomiyaki, I felt was waste of time as I am not as much of a foodie!

I had decided to visit Miyajima an island offshore in Hiroshima Bay in the early morning of the last day. I had to advance it, as there was no direct Hikari Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Tokyo. It was to be Sanyo from Hiroshima to Shin Osaka and then Shin Osaka to Tokyo by Hikari. Changing of train at Shin Osaka was going to be time consuming so I had to drop the idea of morning visit to Miyajima.

There was power boat service from the jetty on Motoyasu River, taking directly to Miyajima. I boarded it at Y 2200 rather steep fare but it allowed me to fit Miyajima in my schedule.   

It caught the speed not less than any boat in James Bond movie. The front nozzle was almost in the air. Miyajima has many attractions worth a visit, Itsukushima Jinja Otorii or a floating Torii top the list. It also is abode to shrine of Kiyomori shrine. Plus Mt. Misen.

Being a tourist attraction it also has ‘N’ number of food stalls and shops of souvenirs. Walk of about 10-15 minutes along the boulevard takes you to Grand Floating Torii. It really looks majestic during the high tide, looking really like floating on the water. In low tide you can walk up to the structure. Built on pillars on the sea bed the shrine of Kiyomori too practically looks like floating on water during high tide. The water almost wets the floors of two major shrines Honsha and Seesha. Both are open from all the sides giving them a feel of windy verandas. On the platforms adjacent to it, Kabuki performances are held as special events.

Another attraction for the Firangs is stray Deer [or are they owned], many many in number roaming all over the streets of island seeking food.  They are so domesticated that they don’t mind a cuddle by anyone who offers them food. Souvenir shops were really bargain so I ended up buying few Tees for girls in my home and for little brat, Arsh, my grandson, a cute Kimono!

My calculations for the time went little haywire and I could not catch gondola on the rope-way to Mt. Misen. They close their operations at 4 PM and it was already 3.45 PM. I would have loved the panoramic view of Hiroshima from the top but……. You gain something…you miss something!

Contrary to common belief that Japanese might be loving savory more, due to their indulgence in meat recipes, they have quite a sweet tooth! Shops serving sweets in Miyajima outnumber the restaurants serving savory! Momiji Manju, what a unique name for a sweet, is very popular. I tried to ask for ingredients, but drew a blank for lack of communication. Of course I loved it because I too have a sweet tooth!

Ferry back home was free for JR pass holders; it was Ro-Ro boat with lower deck for vehicles. Tram terminus, Miyajamaguchi taking you back to Hiroshima railway station is just opposite the ferry wharf. Tram is called street-car in Hiroshima reminding one, of the famous play by Tennessee Williams and movie by the same name ‘Street Car named Desire’. Elizabeth Taylor had won the Oscar for her role in it.

The travel in the street car was very friendly, maybe routine travelers knew conductor by his name. He too was a jolly good fellow helping everybody in their chores, like personally pushing the wheel chair of grandfather to get him on the board and also to alight or holding the bags for a young mother with a kid! I traversed practically entire Hiroshima in just Y 230. Quite cheap by the Japanese standards!

Leaving Hiroshima left mixed feelings but mostly sad. Remorse for the dead still lingered!