Kyoto: Hop On Hop Off

Happy me with Sakura

Kyoto: Hop On Hop Off

Kyoto is like Pandora’s Box. Every time you put your hand in, you get a new gem. And rightly so because it was erstwhile capital of Japan for more than 1000 years before it was shifted to present day capital, Tokyo, formerly Edo. It’s part of second largest urban and industrial zone in Japan, Keihanshin along with nearby Osaka and Kobe. Kyoto’s cultural heritage is so strong and deep rooted that every Japanese visits it at least once in his lifetime, and thus one third of Japan’s population visits it annually.

If the city has many more tourists’ spots, it’s better to search for ‘Hop on Hop Off’ bus services. Not only do they cover many areas efficiently, but give you ample time to visit every spot at your pace. Kyoto has it and the starting point was very near to Ibis Styles, just on the opposite side of Kyoto station

In Kyoto they are not just tourists’ spots that you visit them like a ritual but from every angle they are worth visiting places either for their heritage value, natural beauty or for wonderful architecture.

But first things first. Breakfast at Ibis. I literally died for it. Such a wonderful and vast spread. It’s always better to choose hotels those offer breakfast either with stay or at a small cost. For Y 1800 it was worth every penny I mean every Yen. The advantage is you can try new food. Outside, after paying heftily, if you don’t like it, it’s a waste of your hard earned money. It has happened with me, many times before!

For any Puneri Brahmin [including me] to have Steak in the breakfast at 8 AM in the morning, is unthinkable. I too did not think that it would happen to me, ever. But I always like to venture in the unknown territories. And that Steak turned out to be divine. To call it simply delicious would have been crime! It just melted in the mouth and mind you it did not have any of the oft used Indian masalas! I had Gulati Kababs in the past but they are too gooey. Here the texture made every difference! Not too soft, not too chewy [many meat dishes turn out to be chewy] it had that correct grainy texture. Satiated fully, with other tasty stuff I ventured out to have darshan of Kyoto.

Nijo Castle Moat

The first halt I took was Nijo castle. I like surprises and it turned out be surprise in altogether different area. It was residence of the first ‘Shogun’ [Haven’t you heard this word before in different context? Ninja Movies!] Takugawa of Edo era [from 1603 to 1867]. As the capital moved to Tokyo later it was used as Imperial palace, eventually it was handed over to the city authorities and was opened for the public, [From the Boards displayed in the castle.]

It is surrounded by a moat of water and one has to cross it using ornamental bridge. Before……Of course the entrance fees. Again hefty and in cash. Japanese must be believing in their civil servants firmly, in handling the cash!

Japanese cities have their own Metro Railway cards, different for different urban areas but they are accepted at such places, even at convenience stores. It can be used just like your debit card. I had decided to buy such card when the need be, so had differed to buy it so far. SUICA is the best and reliable so the most popular. [I had bad experience about other card, ICOCA, purchased locally in Kyoto but about that, later.] 

Castle Gate

Castle Gate with Gold foil

Entrance is captivating, done in Gold and wooden carvings, known as Karamon gate. Ninomaru castle is in the most inner circle. As it was mostly residence of Shogun it has many rooms rather than halls. But at the same time as Shogun met the dignitaries, there are other meeting rooms too. Main audience room has elevated dais where Shogun heard very few highly ranked visitors. Every room is known by the paintings done on the walls. If tigers are painted, it’s known as tiger room. So there is Peacock room, Falcon room and so on. The corridors which join these rooms squeak while walking on them to give the warning of intruder so are known as nightingale floors. The purpose is same as the Kolhapuri chappals!

The beauty of the paintings on the walls is, they are minimalistic. If it’s a tiger room there would be only one, at the most two tigers on the walls along with very few trees painted in Japanese style. There is absolutely no cluttering with details.

There are vast grounds outside the palace’s main building and naturally there is a garden, Ninomaru garden with a large pond, ornamental stones and manicured pine trees.

Ninomanu Garden

But as I have said before surprises come unexpectedly, naturally that’s why they are called surprises. Here it came in the form of Sakura, cherry blossom! Entire premises including the garden and open spaces were full of cherry trees blooming with cherry flowers! There it was ‘Cherry blossom’, the flowers, the world dies for!

Sakura Happy with Shash

Indeed, they deserve the affection! Japan has rather harsh winters, temperatures dipping down to as low as minus five at many places [In North Japan it goes to down to deadly minus 20 at times, record is minus 40]. So the advent of spring heralded by blooming of the cherry trees is like an event to celebrate! Another reason is, bloom lasts hardly for a week to maximum ten days, so you are considered lucky if you catch the full Blossom at the right time. And I was really lucky! I could see Cherry blossom in so many forms, in so many colors and at so many places. 

Sakura in full bloom!

I stand tall among-st equals!

My colors-Wow in different shades

The flowers vary in size, from small to curvaceously big, color, mostly they are faint pink but vary from pristine white to Rani pink to red[ but not blood red], and density, few trees sparsely flowering while others, most of them, laden with thousand flowers on a single twig!. A fully laden cherry tree looks like a fairy in her most gorgeous avatar! I could not help myself so took few steps, immediately captured by the youth who took another pictures for me! 

Inner Happiness on face for Sakua

Later I could relish the beauty of Cherry blossom at Philosopher’s Path, Arshiyama, Kamo River, Kinkaku-ji, and Ginkaku-ji, oh so many places but heart was never satisfied. You do not cherish Cherry Blossom by eyes but you have to love them from the heart!

The next was Kinkaku-ji. The most visited Zen temple in Kyoto. In fact it was not a temple when it was built; it was a rest house for some statesman. After his death it was converted into Zen temple. Original structure was destroyed and rebuilt many times and the present structure is quite recent, rebuilt and renovated in 1955.There are doubts whether the original structure had gold foil or not but the present day structure was decorated with pure gold leaves as late as 2003, when the roof was restored[ From the information pamphlet]. On the roof there is statue of phoenix in bronze.

Kinkuji on the banks of Kokyo-chi

It stands on the banks of a rather a big pond, Kyoko-chi, or mirror pond which, of course is at the center of beautiful [can it be otherwise?] Japanese garden. It’s called mirror pond because the reflection of pavilion in its waters is nothing but picturesque. One can have a round around the Golden pavilion, as it is also known but cannot enter it. It may remind one; especially Indians of Golden temple at Amritsar [It reminded me at least].

Me breaking in Dance on enjoying Sakura

Sweety Pies

At the exit of Kinkaku-ji I met this cho-chweet couple. Like Korea it’s also a trend in the youngsters of Japan to wear traditional dresses at such places. I asked the boy whether I can take their snap. He looked at his girlfriend/wife just raising his eyebrows. She smiled at him just nodding her head. Language of love in sweet gestures! After taking their snap she insisted to have one with me. I tried to refuse, husband/ Boyfriend too backed the request and here is this snap.

She insisted

I was under the impression that Kimono is losing its charm under the onslaught of western fashion. Surprisingly contrary to my belief I saw many old grandmas wearing it with élan in next few weeks! Like we see a Marathi lady from Sangli-Satara still wearing nine yard sari! 

As I have said earlier, Kyoto is Pandora’s Box. I had to drop many smaller attractions for the eminent ones so without taking the halts in-between I directly got down to visit Kyoto’s Imperial palace.

It was official residence of Monarch of Japan as late as 1869 before the monarchy shifted to Tokyo’s Royal palace but few emperors still had their enthronement ceremonies at this palace, as latest as in 1928. Emperor Showa who had the ceremony here was the longest ruling Monarch of Japan, rather world! [From the information provided by the palace.]

To be frank enough the palace, to be called Imperial, is too spartan and simple. No beautification even on par with the shrine of Toshogu of Nikko. Of course a very beautiful Japanese garden, the best of the gardens so far I had seen, is there in the premises but the main building is sans any adornments. I don’t know about the interiors as the public is not allowed but the exteriors are absolutely so so!

Imperial Palace

Kinkaku-ji is on the Northern Mountains of Kyoto, while its exact replica Ginkaku-ji is on the slopes of the Eastern Mountains. History too is exactly same, built initially as rest house, for one of the Shoguns that was converted into a Zen temple after his death. I liked Ginkaku-ji more because of its surroundings, absolutely beautiful, serene and soothing to the eyes. The dry garden or the rock garden here is absolutely unique. Though it’s called as Silver pavilion it was never covered in Silver. After walking along the dry garden, also known as Sea of silver sand, you reach the base of a hill. Trekking on the hills, along the delineated path gives you grandiose view of entire complex from above. And for it I liked Ginkaku-ji more than Kinkaku-ji! On the way back, there is ‘Philosopher’s path’, with a canal accompanying it on the side, it was lined by Cherry Blossom in its most glorious beauty!

Philosophers' Path

Ginkaku-ji

It gets dark rather early in Japan, naturally because it dawns early too. Japan is known as Nation of rising sun for nothing!

It was almost evening though it was hardly 3.30-4 PM when I took the last halt at Gion, geisha district of Kyoto. It’s famous not only Geishas but Yasaka shrine along with Yasaka pagoda.

Geisha House

There was absolutely race with time to photograph the pagoda against the setting sun. One thing that India may be on par with Japan is crowds! Hundreds of Firangs along with locals were trying to capture the moment twisting their torsos in whichever angle possible!

I walked down the lane known as Niomon dori which houses Geishas’ performing theaters. And if you don’t look for it you would definitely miss it. Star Buck café in its absolutely local avatar. How these multinationals change according to current is very vividly seen here. They serve Matcha here in its absolutely authentic form. It’s a green tea made from green tea leaves before they are cured. Tasted elsewhere I absolutely abhorred it!

At one of the eating outlets on the same lane I tried Dangos, a sweet/savory dish made of sticky rice flour. I had tried to make them at home but it was a total fiasco! These ones were quite luscious and tasty. They come in different flavors and toppings. The one I had was sweet soy sauce glaze [Mitarashi], while other popular ones are with red Bean paste toppings or chocolate covering to cater to the western tongues.  

Soya Caramel Dangos

And lo, while eating them I saw a Geisha passing by. Along with thick layer of paint on her face she had her hair coiffured in fashion known as Nihongami [Wikipedia], typical for geisha. She of course was wearing kimono, rather tight fitting with wooden high heel sandals, Okobo on white socks. I could not take a snap as it is prohibited by law!

Handsome Rickshaw-wala

Another surprise was a man pulling a rickshaw! No comparisons! They were good looking young men hardly in their late teens or early twenties. Some of them were really ‘Hot’ in today’s parlance! May be to pull the rickshaw was their side business being in Geisha area [strictly with tongue in cheek!].

The hard disk for the ‘Knowledge’ was so full by this time and when the legs started saying enough I decided to call it a day and returned to Ibis Styles with Bento box for dinner.