Masaai Mara, here we come!

3 important and well visited National parks in Africa are Masaai Mara in Kenya, Serengeti in Tanzania and Kalahari in South Africa. Serengeti and Masaai Mara are practically each other’s extensions, sharing the borders. Hollywood docudramas, ‘African Safari’ and ‘Beautiful People’ are filmed in Serengeti and Kalahari respectively. You would not find any boy from my generation who has not seen African Safari. We had a cassette of ‘Beautiful People’ at home and God knows how many times my 4 years son and I saw it. He always cried when two little birds last in the exodus in search of water die due to dehydration and malnutrition. Phenomenon still occurs every year between Masaai Mara and Serengeti when water in Serengeti goes in short supply. This yearly event happens around August - September when hundreds of wild Beasts, Zebras and smaller animals cross Croc and Hippo infested Mara River, it’s known as Migration. Our tour was in May so we could not see it.   

No sooner we exited our hotel premises and entered the game reserve just few meters away from our vehicle this tall magnificent Giraffe with zig- zag patterned shining golden skin was grazing on the upper leaves of acacia tree which had ample thorns.

It was really intriguing to see how he managed to avoid those sharp appendages of tree.  He moved in slow languid gait from one tree to another, naturally because of his height. When he crossed the road stealthily, his long neck made undulating funny movements. It was surprising to know that even though it has such a long neck number of vertebrae in it, is just the same as other vertebrates; Seven! He was soon joined by another four and it was sight to watch.

On the other side just a few meters away a group of Zebras, called as dazzle or zeal of Zebras, was frolicking on the grass, throwing in friendly duels using their hind legs with dexterity and accuracy. May be they were sharpening their skills for protection in case of attacks of beasts!

Suddenly driver put the vehicle in speed. I was little annoyed as I had not taken the snaps from good angles. But ours was not the only jeep; more vehicles joined us from all the sides. The news was some forest ranger had spotted cheetah, “Cheetah!!’ I immediately remembered the phenomenon in all the ‘Tiger’ reserves of India. Be it Pench, Kanha or most popular Andhari reserve at Tadoba. Exact replication of the marvel!

There he was, lying on the grass languidly, looking around sleepily and taking the cognizance of visitors! (Today there are fewer vehicles than yesterday morning!!!) Well rounded head with two distinct black lines running from inner canthi of eyes down to corners of mouth known as tear tracks. Distinctive features of cheetahs, not seen in Leopards or other such cats, Puma or Panther. His slender, aerodynamic body was instantly recognizable. It’s must as he is the fastest running mammal on the earth. Golden tan skin covered with solid black spots. Again it’s a specialty. In leopards these spots are in groups of 3 to 4 in rosettes like pattern.

Here our driver gave us enough time to have snaps even videos. In the entire melee around, he was the only, the most composed and least bothered adult animal! Magnificent with lordly Attitude! Surprisingly amongst the big cats he is the only one who does not attack human beings as prey and is shy by nature, not ferocious like Tigers! Aha, that was the reason why he was so unperturbed by the presence of humanity in large numbers!

Eyes fully loaded with his poise and brain with ‘I saw a real Cheetah today’, feeling we left the scene with heavy heart for the prince of savannah to enjoy his solitude, amidst eyes from 25 or so voyeuristic jeeps!

One the way we saw lots of African Bisons. But who was interested in watching cousins of Indian buffaloes after traversing half the universe that too at cost!

Apart from animals savannah has its own beautiful landscapes to mesmerize you. Acres and acres of lush green grass with ripening golden grass thrown in it was a treat to the eyes. The scenes were so exquisite that they did download on the camera as they were, like something lost in translation. Lone Acacia trees on the horizon were giving savannah its ‘Logo’!

There was another play being enacted on the horizon. Dark clouds were playing ‘Thunder, thunder’ with occasional downpour and mischievous sun sending its naughty strands of golden rays through the occasional gap between the  thick clouds! Every angle of the savannah was a peace taken out of beautiful landscape paintings from every good artist worth his penny. I too felt like painting one on reaching the home, but realized I simply do not have that magic in my fingers which Mother Nature unfolds!

Masaai Mara savannah is home for spotted Hyenas.

They do research on them at the institute. No surprise that we spotted many, some of whom accompanied us for long. Some monkeys parched on the high trees refused to come down as the scavenger was rallying around. As soon as he left the battle ground, whole troupe of monkeys landed on the ground, making cries of victory!

I am novice in bird watching, except common sparrows and parrots I cannot distinguish between crested bulbul and dark necked woodcutter. They do look different no doubt but it tests my intellect to remember their names. My son is really expert and can differentiate ‘N’ number of species. There was this bird perched on the top of tall a tree with curved beak. People tried to enlighten me but I am still confused whether it was brahminical eagle or simple kite!

On the way back we saw a huge herd of wild beasts in beyond the countable number. Their ilks from neighboring Serengeti from Tanzania participate in yearly migration in August and go back to their homeland in November.

Dinner was good. Why fish served anywhere in the world smells fishy? Though it was really good to taste, the fishy odor was still prevalent. Probably only Japanese know how to serve odorless fish in sushi, that too raw! While we were having dinner Masaai youths presented their traditional dance, it was nothing but raw energy oozing from every pore. While dancing they were jumping in the air so high trying to outsmart every other one. It’s said that their this skill fetches them a good wife, so the stakes were really ‘HIGH’ at least in jumping!

Cottage was cozy and it was the only one throughout Africa to have water-jet in toilet. But it was too hard to press so one had to use both the hands. More about this toilet tissue fiasco, later in the course!