Victoria Falls via Nairobi

The Kenyan government was contemplating increase in the cess on petrol from kShilings 245 to kSh 300. That’s from around $1.89 to $ 2.32. In India we still have petrol at around $1!( Actually we are much better on the world scenario, many third world countries are reeling under economic pressure due to this uncalled for war! One single egomaniac lunatic holding the entire world at ransom for his whims and fancies, not accepted!) Economy of Kenya was at stake so the protests were called for. Entire Kenya was to be road blocked, on the day we were to travel to Nairobi. To avoid the menace Swapnil decided to start very early to avoid the heat. We started in the wee hours and reached Nairobi without any hitch at around 10 A.M. It was a fast feat as roads were deserted.

On the way to Nairobi we took a coffee break at Rift valley view point, which is in the Ghats to Nairobi.

The panoramic view was enthralling. Plains and plains reaching up to horizon colored in various shades of green and brown. In fact it stretches from north to south of Kenya encompassing all her lakes, rivers and national parks. It features dramatic escarpments with breathtaking view points.

Nairobi is like any other big city. It starts with many shack like tenements, gradually merging into cityscape of small to big buildings. Nairobi proper, the capital city is worth its salt. Wide clean roads, esthetically erected office buildings with good number of skyscrapers thrown in between. Architecture of few establishments could pass the muster on the universal scale, easily! Interspersed were Manicured gardens and well mowed lawns. It etched a picture of well planned beautiful capital city.

Our driver zig-zagged us through various areas those housed parliament,

council, senate, judiciary and all the government paraphernalia. British impression on the style of architecture was unmistakable. Many blacks, men women both, may be office workers and/or Government officials suited and booted from top to toes remotely resembled their tribal brethren, really? 

The maze of flyovers and underpasses at Museum hill denoted new, imminent Kenya. It held hope for the coming Kenyan generations in particular and African Blacks in general!

Kenyan national museum was our next stop. Not very big. What stands out is Kenya’s struggle for independence. Not very different from that of India! Every white ruled colony has its own Jallianwala bagh! There was a massacre killing myriad of natives, it’s known as Mau Mau rebellion, in 1956. The story is same as everywhere, wherever the whites ruled. Be it Australia where they exterminated native Maoris, in America red Indians, in Africa all over, no country barred, whether it was British or German or French colony blacks were killed , raped, castrated, beheaded, ostracized and annihilated! Most ruthless and despicable race was and is white; the picture even today is not very different!

In 2013 Britain accepted the blame and responsibility for the atrocities committed by the British officers on Kenyan subjects and compensated the surviving victims to the tune of 20 million pounds. Here I agree with Dr Shashi Thuroor (Dr Shashi Benur agreeing with Dr Shashi Thuroor!). We too must ask Britain to return our stolen treasure including Koh-e-noor!

We had our lunch at an Indian restaurant run by a Punjabi family from West Punjab, now in Pakistan. And since then the sequence of food at Indian Restaurants started. In fact Swapnil was helpless because except Shubha and me every other one preferred it!

Our hotel at Nairobi was from the same chain, Sarova from Nakuru, it was Sarova Stanley Nairobi! Situated at the city centre. It was just fantastic. Exclusively 5 star!! The room allotted to us was a suit, nothing less. It has master bedroom with attached officer/conference room. Two W/Cs one with spacious tub, shining coffee bar and chandelier hung from ceiling at the centre! But it was only for one night, why only for few hours! Due to unstable law and order situation we had decided to check out very early in the morning 4 AM to catch a flight to Victoria Falls Zimbabwe.

We still had few spare hours, on hands in the evening, so decided to have stroll around the block. All the staff as well as the security warned us against the idea. Everybody said it’s extremely dangerous! Due to extreme poverty in certain sections of society mugging is rampant. And the mugger if does not find any cash on your person, does not hesitate to attack with weapon! Wound up the idea and went to the uppermost floor where it has swimming pool, to have a dip! It was heated pool so in that cold climate, temperature around 10* C, it was boon!

Did not have sleep of even 40 winks. Woke up at 2 AM, did away with morning ablutions and we were in the lobby with luggage at 3.30 AM sharp. At those unearthly hours it was unthinkable to have full breakfast so had only coffee and few biscuits. Hotel supplied us with packages of breakfast to eat on the way.

We were at the Nairobi airport at 4.30 AM sharp to catch 7.25 AM flight to Victoria Falls airport Zimbabwe! Once bitten twice shy. I lied on the parapet wall to have short nap, it helped. Flight to Victoria Falls was nothing exceptional except we had surplus of food. They served the breakfast on board as usual and we had food packages from hotel. We landed on

Victoria Falls airport according to schedule. It was international airport as Victoria Falls fetch tourists from all over the world but nothing grandiose, just like any other country airport without any flashy décor. Cozy! It had nice small water fall inside may be representation of the main fall! In Zimbabwe it was visa on arrival. So it was time consuming. Swapnil was struggling (haggling with the officer!) to get the visas for 22 people as early as possible. It done, we were in Luxurious 2 by 2 Volvo like bus to our hotel Elephant Hill resort.

Victoria Falls Township that has developed around the Falls is very small town with very few native households. Of the rest most are small hotels, resorts or tourist activity centers. You hardly see any establishment having more than two storeys. Lush green canopy of trees covering every road it was extremely suitable place to spend retired life!

Elephant hill resort was magnificent in its own way. Not having many floors it was spread over vast area. African Male Dancers were performing at the gate to welcome us. God knows, how they have such a beautiful rhythm in everyone of them. Maharashtrian Marathi especially Man has two left legs, may be because dance is looked down upon in higher echelons of the limited society! Finding the room was task as the hotel building had many offshoots which were no less than a maze. Room was really cozy facing eastwards and it had the view of mist from the falls!

On all the days in Victoria town we had our lunches and dinners at an inn run by a Gujrati lady from Valsad.  Homemade food was very good and the hostess in her 40s may be, very hospitable, smiling all the time and personally looking after the needs of diners.

First evening in Victoria Town is/was the most memorable.

it was cruise on Zambezi River which becomes placid after turbulent encounter at Victoria Falls. It actually forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. So again we crossed the border of Zambia without valid visa!  It is the 4^th largest river in Africa and only one draining in Indian Ocean. Cruise was on two storeyed watercraft equipped with bar and small kitchen. Naturally all of us selected the upper deck.

The view from upper deck was enchanting. The basin of the river is very wide with dense forestation on the banks. There were waters and waters up to horizon absolutely hypnotizing. Drinks and starters were on the house. News was exhilarating! But only at the outset. When one does not want to make show of oneself in public, drinking automatically is restricted. I opted for Mojito with white rum! Then there were endless servings of starters, right from sushi to small pizzas to Indian snacks.

Chicken in various avatars was delicious be it patties, fried or shredded. After getting tipsy a little, I hate to over drink it was absolutely heaven. Ambiance, company, food everything exhilarating. To add to the fun there was this hippo that opened his mouth fully for us to put cherry on the top of our enjoyment! We also shook a leg or two! The time flew with the wings of butterfly slowly, languidly but beautifully.

Sun started setting on the western horizons letting demure dusk to descend on the tranquil waters lifting the spirits with spirits! It was time for adieu. But the evening
etched permanent memories for many times to come.

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